The Beginning

Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz

Lightning Waltz

PTSD

Cat With No Tail

Beane's Blast

Vertigo

Gladiator

Straight up the arete. Balancy start leads to crux. Moderate climbing on upper half leads to a bulge below the anchors.

Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz climbs the plumb line of the crag through nice edges and bouldery sequences.

Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.

Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.

The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.

Route starts just left of the dirty crack system. Scramble up some low 5.0 class rock to the first bolt. Work up the left side of the arete and pull onto a short friction slab. Staying left of the bolts, move up to the second overhang for the second crux, grabbing the right edge. Gain the face with good holds, continue on good crimps moving to the right of the bolts up to the anchors.

Currently the first bolted route on the right. Has its own anchors at the top.

Fantastic route on the left side of the wall. Worth doing while you're there. Solid climb for the grade of 5.10c, beta intensive moves on crimps with great exposure.

All bolts on this route are tan, so follow the 2 bolts up on the arete and cross over Beanies Blast toward the middle of the wall. Shares an anchor with beanies blast.

Fun and shady route on the left side of Lookout Wall. Relatively steep for the grade with positive holds. There is one rattly hold to keep you entertained.

climb the broken crack system on the right of the main crack system, just left of Gladiator. spare gear and easy climbing. anchors on right shared with Gladiator.

The Beginning

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (b) Lookout Wall