Blood Moon is the biggest link up of climbs in Groom Creek. Making for an instant classic power endurance problem. Blood Moon starts sitting in the cave of Moonlighting V8, do this route but instead of heading right and topping out, move out of the cave left and traverse the dirty rail into Full Moon V8. From here catch a shake and move into Moonstone V6/7 and finish as for moonstone. In total there are about 28-32 moves on this beast.  

  This rail is constantly dirty, for repeats of the line cleaning is mandatory to find the holds.

Blood Moon

Gun Shy

Moonlighting

Lob Job

Fierce Invalids

Fastball AKA The Baseball Throw

Flying Fish

Flying Fish Left Arete

Eclipse

Charles in Charge

Full Moon

New Moon

Fish Tale

Steppin' Out

The Bolt

Undertoe

Moonstone

A reachy problem, this is the "intro" to Leg-Lock rock.  Start with a right undercling and a left sidepull, and then work your way up to the large knob at the top of the boulder.

Kind of beta intensive involving crossovers, body tension, and, well, you'll see.

Moonlighting is the much overlooked cave problem right below moonstone and to the right of starting full moon. 

  You'll see the small cave that makes you start horizontal and upside down in batshit. Small edges and a pinch, with a super hard sloper slap and campus is the programming here.

Lob Job is on the scoopy part of Leg Lock Rock in between the Baseball Throw on the left and Charles in Charge on the right.

 As I remember this was a really independent line. At least the way I did it. I found the movement to be subtle, powerful, tenuous, and slopey! Go straight up without using any holds on either of it's neighbors and see what you think.

Fierce Invalids climbs up the perched, tear drop shaped boulder that forms the tunnel as you approach the back porch area. The problem faces the One Hand Slap boulder, and begins at the edge of a drop off into the trail below. Luckily, the only features on this east face are two xenoliths that lead you away from the precipice. Start on the inset, basketball-shaped xenolith and make a long move up and left to an inset, football shaped xenolith. Match and punch it to the top for an easy top out.

Flying Fish has long been a classic run and jump problem in the middle of the clean face of The Fish Boulder. 

  It also goes as a regular problem, but it's the grade that does the jumping!!

Find the clean cut face of Flying Fish. On the left side of the face you'll find an undercling and slightly higher than head height left hand thin pinch, pull onto the boulder from the pinch and the undercling and jump to the lip, traverse the lip right all the way across the boulder and top out....Super fun jug traverse on the lip.

Just left of the classic Moonstone. Fantastic moves! Start practically lying down with a good flake for the left hand, a crimp for the right, and a left heel hook; make hard moves to a left undercling with thumb catch, then fall into a right sidepull and throw to the lip. The original line here was Leapfrog (V1) which started on the lip by stepping off the boulder behind.

A great problem with distinctive moves.  Start with undercling and a toe-cam (if tall enough) and make the long reach to unlikely slopers.  Keep your feet on and toss for the jug. 

Please clean your tick marks or do not use them at all!

Full Moon is the Extension of Moonstone. Start below Moonstone right where you walk up to it. Start both hands on a jug, heel-hook and traverse left into Moonstone finishing as you would on the classic. 

  The extension adds about 8 more hand moves, making this an awesome endurance fest of a problem ranging in between 17-20 moves. Must do for locals who are running out of options or the endurance master.

New Moon is not Eclipse. It is the link up of starting on Eclipse and finishing on Moonstone. The crux comes in the form of a gigantic span between your foot and hand from the eclipse crimp rail to the left most low hold on moonstone with your foot on the start of Eclipse.  

  This can be done statically, but for most people under 5'11" you'll have to jump making this a bit harder of a problem.

Super tech slopers on the undercut arête, SE corner. Tough for the grade till you figure it out. Will this be the one that gets away? This problem is in between Flyin Fish and Undertoe V5 which climbs the slanting edge of the boulder to the right of Fish Tale also topping out on Fish Tale.

High-steppy moves on rounded knobs with a high crux and less-than-positive topout. The arete is off for the V3, using it drops the grade to around V1 but the problem is almost as fun.

East side of Bolt rock (sometimes called The Egg) left side of face up to large bowl. Look for knob. Some people may have to jump for it.

Sloppy moves that start low on climbers right. Move left and around the corner, toping out on "Flying Fish". 

Steep! Sit-down start at the obvious jug underneath the boulder on the right side, near the edge of the drop.  Steep but positive pulls out the overhang until your feet cut loose, then a dynamic move up to a crescent incut near the lip.  Slap the dish over the lip and then don't come off the finishing jugs and you are there. 

  One of the best problems Groom has to offer.

Includes The Moonstone Boulder, Leg Lock Rock, Bolt Rock, and The Fish Boulder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moonstone, Leg Lock Rock, Bolt Rock Area