Get established by taking your pick of several awesome underclings. From here, use a series of positive holds to surmount the bulge and establish yourself below the crux. A couple hidden feet help to move right, then hang on as you bump hands back left to the arete. Finish by climbing the arete and slab to the top. Momma and Johnny have been known to share a foot or hand hold on occasion. Let’s hope that’s all they’re sharing...

Momma's Got  a Mullet

Postcard From Palm Springs

Penny Pincher

Carhartt Lingerie

Lagerhythm

They say Yakima is the Palm-Springs of Washington.  Much like living in Yakima, this route tested my patience, resilience and tolerance for choss. What emerged from the rubble is a very fun addition to the wall, and a reminder that its worth the work to dig below the surface and get to know a place and a community beyond the lifted trucks and confederate flags (aka choss) that you first see. This route took more than 20 hours of cleaning, but proved to be every bit worth the effort.

Start by making a series of mantles on positive holds to the second bolt. The angle steepens through the next two bolts but massive holds keep the climbing reasonable. Clipping the chain-draw signifies the beginning of the crux, where a series of challenging moves leads to a pair of blocky underclings below a roof. The final roof encounter involves serious body tension between amazing side-pulls and a high foot that may have you waving like a flag  if your technique isn't quite right.

If you get this one clean, you can proudly claim to have "sent a postcard from palm springs" while on a climbing trip in the middle of Washington.

This route is money, and some of the holds on it actually feel like holding a thick stack of cash. Start on a pillar of rock in an alcove and use holds to the right and left of the bolt-line. As the pillar of positive feet runs out, transition right to the scoop feature and clip off a positive hold down and right of the second bolt. A couple crimps and a cool sloper-jug put you below the first roof. Pull through this and you’re rewarded with a glory-horn and a decent rest. From the rest, take advantage of good feet to gain an undercling and clip. Now you’re in the crux. The holds might feel like stacks of money, but they won’t save you from the pump. A jug that’s hard to see from below signifies the end of the crux and allows you to de-pump before the minor slab encounter above.

There’s a rather thin string of holds down at the bottom, but If you can see through the sequence and rest on the jugs, you won’t find yourself slipping off at the upper crux.

There’s no math needed for this equation. This is the rhythm you get in when you’re working a blue collar job and drinking a beer (or six) everyday after work to "unwind".  In my case the Lagerhythm has been developing this cliff before work and pouring drinks at a bar downtown each night. This is the original route on the wall, and easily one of the best. Start by deciphering a somewhat cryptic sequence on positive, but thin holds to the second bolt. There’s an under-cling here that is remarkably good if you can figure out how to hold it right. Head left to a series of left facing sidepulls, and move your right hand to the unlikely, but absolutely perfect geometric flake. Navigate the technical crux and jam your hands fore-arm deep into the giant undercling to rest up. Look around for several hidden but super important holds in the next section and save some juice for the brilliant compression finish.

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Protection

Routes in Underclass Overhang