Climb a wide crack down low, transition right across a face, and gain another widening crack up high.

According to the old Anderson guide, this route used to have 3 fixed pins, but now it only appears to have one. Small cams (think black Alien, purple/silver TCU) protect what are probably the old pin scars in a left-slanting seam. The R comes from the fact that these placements are a bit hard to see, and if you blow them, it could be ugly.

All in all, an exciting and interesting route with a bit of spice.

Carabiner Crack

The Other Lieback

Winter Prime

The Perfect Lie Back

Start in a wide slot with a block that creates two finger cracks.  Awkward moves and insecure finger jams/liebacking will get you onto a ramp (and a much needed rest).  Continue up the dihedral to the anchors.  Gear from here is pretty much nonexistent.

Jug through the first bolt, then climb a technical and engaging dihedral to a funky roof.

The old guidebook calls this a 5.11+ toprope. Looks like it got bolts at some point. The first 10 feet are blanker than blank, unless I missed something.

If you walked up the sandy approach trail, this route will be just on your right.  The first half is lie backing up a slab.  The crack turns verticle at half way point, this is were the crux is.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6 - Liebacks Area