This climb is a heady lead and is most often toproped. Climb on the arete or just right of the arete while placing small, sometimes tricky gear. A great climb, in my opinion, and a worthy lead to be challenged on mentally.

Left Side of Gray Face

Unnamed aka The Ironing Board

Ironing Board Arete

Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)

Thin Crack Variation

This route is located immediately to the left of the

Jungle Book

.  It is a right-arching crack splitting the large gray practice slab.  Start in the alcove in the center of the slab reaching up to the finger slots.  After the crux move (the start is maybe a wee bit harder than 5.8), jam and lieback the ever-widening crack.  Following the crack up and to the right on a ledge brings you the anchors of the

Jungle Book

.  Two variations exist on the top.  1st variation: (5.10) Follow the right arching crack up until it is possible to move left with face moves into a small finger crack.  A few sweet ring locks bring you to anchors on which you may top rope the slab.  2nd variation: (5.10) Top the crack out to the ledge with the

Jungle Book

anchors.  Continue up an additional twenty feet in the sweet hand to fist crack; top out on the diving board, walk back ten feet, and rap off of black Metolius anchors.

The slab to the left of the climb is often top roped by the anchors of the first variation. There exists a number of good face moves on edges (5.9). The anchors may be reached by some fifth class scrambling around the corner to the left, near the start of the pink face.

Climb one of the Ironing Board routes such as the classic

Ironing Board

or the

Thin Crack Variation

. Clip the anchor on the face, and then climb above the anchor, clipping one bolt before topping out the summit block.

Many a Roaring Fork tradster got their teeth sharpened on this open book corner; the old timers refered to it as the Graduation Crack.  Leading this crack was the graduation lead to become a climber.  An excellent first lead, the Jungle Book is found on the east side of No Name Creek, the furthest right corner of the

Pink Face

and Lone Pine Tree climbs.  It is immediately to the right of a right arching crack in a large grey slab.  Begin in a corner with a few stemming chimney moves to a ledge.  Continue up the open book corner to Metolius rap anchors at about seventy feet.  If you have any size of gear you can probably place it; the upper portion can use either large gear or slings around chockstones, or you can solo it in your approach shoes to retrieve lost gear from beginners.

As you moved off the ironing board and transfer left, you encounter the crux.

Per ??: climb

Ironing Board

to a small ledge then head directly for the anchors via a thin crack with great fingerlocks and some face holds. This avoids the easy OW top part of Ironing Board as well as the sketchy hard-to-protect traverse at the top of that climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gray Face area