Sit start on the big holds down low and work up and left through a few more big holds. Pull up onto the white slab for the topout.

"Unnamed V2" in the book.

Big Stuff

Mossy Corner

Mister Rodgers Vampire Killer

Spin Cyclical

Empty Man

Phallic Tractor

The Better Rail

Mossy Edger

War of Attrition

Three Minute Lizard Fight

Total Downer

Reverse Lizard Fight

Easy Edger

Shares a sit start with the direct V2 on big holds, but instead of going up, move left across a series of edges to reach the wide crack. The traverse moves don't have much in the way of feet and some power is required to motor through them. Finish on

Easy Edger.

Slabby finger crack in a mossy corner. Though the corner looks terribly dirty, the good parts of the finger crack and the feet are mostly clean. The crux is topping this one out, and falling would be ugly due to the height and angle.

Step up on a ledge, go up to the triangle-shaped jug, then continue with some more technical movement off a couple of not-so-great slimpers and some smaller feet to gain the easier topout.

Stand start on left side pulls and right crimps. Work your way up the arête feature with a sequence of compression moves to reach the good holds up top. Using the detached boulder to the right would probably lower the grade.

Quality, technical slab bouldering using a thin dike in the center of the face. The top is committing and a fall would probably suck due to the angle, height, and a rocky ledge jutting out near the landing.

Tricky compression and arête slapping problem. Start on good side pulling holds with a big foot ledge and work up the white dike to top it out. A lower start is possible by matching on a sloping rail on the right face before coming into the start holds for a small bump in difficulty.

One of the best problems at this boulder.

Start on a good jug rail, and work up and left before topping straight out over the slab.

"Unnamed V0" in the book.

Stand start on really nice, comfortable edges. Unfortunately, the perfect edges are ruined by an awkward topout up and left with a messy landing situation.

The rock surrounding the problem is quite mossy but the edges and feet are very clean.

"Unnamed V2" in the book.

One of the harder problems on the boulder, and one of the lowest. Starts on a big, sloping rail on the southwest side of the rock. Requires a difficult move or two to gain the flake, and then another strenuous move yarding on the flake to gain the top.

Climb the crack with good feet and good holds.

Better variation of

Three Minute Lizard Fight

. Starts on

Easy Edger

, but moves immediately out right to the big edge. From here, go straight up with a big, blind move to the crimps on the light-colored slab.

I found the flow of this problem to be much better than the original, as the feet work a little better when heading right, and the finish is much more interesting.

Nice edges and good feet the whole way.

"Unknown Vb" in the book.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tahoe Donner Boulder