Angel Wing

Means to an End

Troublesome God

Dave Christensen Memorial Route

Footprints in the Sand

Stellar Arete

Shoot to Thrill

Cherry Picker

Los Cojones

Boojum Roof

Mayor of Old School

Lichenometry

Taming AmyG Dala

Duckie Butt Rub

Mellow Yellow

Exacerbator

Avian Flew

Immediate Gratification

Arrogant Bastard

Kestrel's Last Stand

Back In Black

Ten Roof Rusted

The route is below the ledge and reached by the anchors on Angel Wing. This line of bolts is left of the first pitch of AW. It has a couple of runouts on very easy blocky rock and the crux is well protected.

Start from ground to roof is kinda hard, route goes up then right to easier ground.  Trend back left mostly.  Follow cracks to large pine tree on ledge 160' above.  Lots of face climbing with occasional crack moves/pro.  Very clean with occasional steep sections but it's mostly vertical.

The route starts on a dihedral capped by a small roof just past fixed line. The line begins right of the dihedral on tan hangers, some bolts are hard to see until you commit upwards.  

  The original mixed line can be done but you have to start on left side of dihedral and at the second to last bolt, traverse right to the arete and finish on the bulging hand crack.

Getting past the first bolt seemed cruxy and so did the roof.  After that it was a cruise on great rock.

Climb a short crack to a slab.  Follow the slab out right and climb the steeper dihedral (crux) above.  Continue up on blocky terrain until you encounter some large trees to belay off of.  Watch out for the cacti.  There should be a block slung with red cordelette slightly to the right of these trees.  It may be difficult to find so bring some webbing of your own.  I can't remember exactly how we got down so to be safe I'm going to say it's a double rope rappel from here to the ground.

Getting past the initial roof onto the lip feels cruxy.  Then getting to the next bolt seems as difficult.  The final moves are also challenging. 

  During the winter the falcons may be nesting nearby. Please stay off this and nearby routes if birds are active.

The low roof is the crux; it goes easier with one side over the other side of your body.

Start is wide chimney to ow roof, face holds make this a blast.  Stay right when the crack appears on right wall.

Starts under the small roof to the south (climber's left) of Stellar Arete. Crux is getting established on the first bolt and getting through the next two. Taller people will likely have an easier time with these moves. They are crimpy and involve delicate face climbing. Up higher there are a couple easier cruxes such that the climbing is sustained. The FA did not stem or use the left facing big dihedral and the bolts up high are placed to draw the climb away from that corner. The line follows the upper vertical crack system and the moves are all there.  

  Lichenometry is a field of study that uses lichen growth to estimate the exposure age of exposed rock -- how long since the last rockfall cleared the face of any previous lichen growth. After many mouth and nosefulls of lichen while cleaning this route, it seemed an apt name! 

  Single line (60m) rap from the anchors of Stellar and Ducky.

This will be a very difficult onsite, but only 11b/c on repoint. Start stemming the chimney til you can clip the first bolt, then commit to the face. Lot's of technical moves, some odd angled holds and a few jugs. pass the huge roof and traverse out onto the airy arete. continue difficult climbing utilizing holds on both  sides of the arete.

Getting past the second bolt is the first crux, then off the ledge to the second bolt then!  Stay in center roof on great jugs to finish.

The rock on this route is excellent.  THe crux moves are exposed and safe.  Plenty of options.

Mount the wide blocky chimney at the left side of the roof area.  The crack becomes fingers through a small roof then incut ledges on easy rock.  Continue directly above on the ever disappearing thin crack to the notch.  This final difficulty is the crux, very thin pro to a great ledge, go left from the ledge to the anchor.  Double rope rappel to the ledge.

Three variations done by first ascent party: climb the crack and stem to the tree/ climb the crack only/ or climb the tree only- past the roof then up face to "chalky dihedral" past the big roof. Then pull the small roof on the Left through a finger and hand crack. then up short corner to rap station on the left. 2nd pitch: directly above pinnacle-follow various moderate cracks to the rim; then rap from another route eg. Angle Wing. 

  5.11 variation: at second roof pull staight through on fingers and small hands, up crack to bolted belay/rap.- variation by B Mattingly

This is leftern of the two bolted routes going through the low roof that's not far south of Mellow Yellow. Los Cojones is the rightern one and they share a 2 bolt anchor of fat hangers no chains. Easier than Los Cojones, this route is a more interesting and sustained line that has fun movement beyond the initial pulling of the fun roof. More sustained for the grade than Los Cojones, and it dances from side to side of the bolts. Will try to get pics posted next time on it.

The route has two ledges on it, making it a great warm-up.  The crux is near the top and on great holds.

Start under the Great Roof. Up the arete that will enable you to clear the roof on its north side. Pull onto the upper face and enjoy the exposure! Bolts placed deliberately to allow ascending a left-facing dihedral just above the roof, or climb the face that the bolts are on. Similar difficulty, different styles of climbing.  

  A well-protected and very fun climb, named for the abundance of kestrel feathers found during that weekend that suggested a battle of the raptors.

Getting to the third bolt was tough.  Either go left to an arete or right on edges and no feet to the clipping hold above the bolt.  Awesome rock and great holds for the rest of the climbing.

Locate between Indecent Exposure and Los Cojones just past the "crawl under ledge" cliimb up and over many small roofs to a finger crack and then right to Indecent Exposure's anchor.

East facing wall, including routes South of the fixed line traverse.

Description

Routes in Main Wall - South