Start at the left edge of the black streak on the pillar. Nice finger crack and dihedral of solid rock in the first half, and face climb past the crux till the end. The crux is going past the little roof.

5.8 crack

5.7 crack / face

Nice and easy warm up. Start on the crack to the right of the black streak. Work up the bouldery base and go up the slabby southeast face. Stay away from crumbly rock on the crack left of the face.

Top rope routes and variations on the south face of the first pillar. Sunny all year long, so it must get really hot during summer. Red granite faces with black water streaks. A mixture of nice solid rock with a few chossy sections, mostly in the cracks. Still a nice place to introduce beginners. 

  Access to the ridge from the north side of the pillar, right south of the Monks. There are two solid top rope anchors for the routes facing south (5.6-5.8). Quickdraws will do, but long slings would be better to reduce rope abrasion. A single bolt seems to be aimed at the southeast face and crack. A 5.6 southeast face could be the reason for it?

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in First Pillar