Climb cracks and flakes on good, orange rock, moving first right as the cracks peter out, then back left to end on the belay ledge with chains. The crux comes down lower on the steeper rock.

Float Like a Butterfly

Quicksilver

Gorilla in Manilla

The Brawl to End it ALL

Obe Won Canobe

Made In the Shade

Brutus 'The Barber' Beefcake

Summer Solstice

Yoda

Little Hulkster

Padawan

Ted DiBiase, “The Million Dollar Man”

Koko B. Ware

Slapping Heads

Hidden Valley Offwidth

Illusions

Black Beauty

Squeezed Opportunity

Don King Crack

Lessons in Discipline

"Nature Boy" Ric Flair

Hacksaw Jim Duggan

Cliff Break Fern

Mene Gene

So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like?

Anasazi

Gardensmith Bypass Shears

Never Ending Story

The Walking Wounded

Jam, chimney, and worm your way up the straight-in wide crack. Pass a tough bulge on good fists, then inch your way up a strenuous, flared squeeze chimney (crux) to the belay ledge.

This is an fun, clean route with great jams down low and a bit of well-protected burliness up high.

P1: 100 feet, 5.10.  Layback up the flake until the crack seams out. From here, utilize both crack systems as both seam out momentarily (crux).  Then use the right hand crack system, good hands and fingers, to climb to the top with a two bolt anchor.

P2: 150 feet, 5.9.  Climb up a nice crack system to the top, negotiating a little looseness near the top.

The first pitch can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.

The Fabulous Moolah is maybe one of the best new lines out here. This long single pitch starts on

Made in the Shade

then cuts right into 0.75-size fingers. Once past the first crux, climb into a low angle grove and up a fist crack through the second crux. Finish up the slot on hands and into a small pod just before the top. Belay here. The second will then need to climb up and past the leader and do some easy downclimbing to meet up with the anchors of

Made in the Shade

.

Rap 35 meters from here. There are a couple loose blocks which can be avoided higher up....

P1: Climb up past a flake into a hand crack.  Pass a short bulge and then place the crux protection in the offwidth above.  Climb the offwidth (crux) and gain a nice hand/finger crack. Climb the crack to a ledge on the right and belay.

P2: Continue up the nice finger/hand crack system with some nice exposure to a large ledge.  Pass by a tree, go left of it, with nice crack moves. Move up a chimney formed by the wall and a pillar. From the top of the pillar step across to a ledge and make a fun rightwards traverse to a ledge with a large roof above and belay.

P3: Pass the roof using small cams in the roof for protection and continue to the top with easy class 5.

Eds.  Note, the above spelling is derived from the guidebook's spelling which is known to differ from the spelling from the movie series.

P1: Start at a small pillar with two small boulders on top. The left side is 5.9-, the right is 5.7. Continue up and left  climbing the obvious crack to a small roof which is passed on the left. Now you're at the sweet part. Climb double hand/finger cracks in a tight slot to fun exit moves through some dike rock and onto a good ledge with chains. You can belay here or continue up the good hand crack (5.7) in the corner to another big ledge with a small pine tree.

P2: Many options exist (5.6-5.8) to reach the top. The rock quality deteriorates on this pitch and you may encounter loose blocks.

I would recommend rappelling (single 70m) from the chains at the top of the first pitch.

This is a short OW variation that finishes on the "

Cliff Break Fern

" ledge. It traverses climbers right into the final 10 feet of

Cliff Break Fern

. There is still some loose stuff on it, but it is mostly clean.

In a canyon with few moderates, this route is definitely worth checking out. It's got a really crappy first pitch, so it's best to rap in after climbing

Obe Won Canobe

and just do the second pitch.

P1: Start in back of a gully and climb bushy cracks of various sizes (basically whatever looks good) to reach a ledgy alcove below a large roof shaped like an elephant's foot.

P2: Climb up beneath the large roof on the left side (better rock is further left), pull past the roof into a corner with a good crack that goes from fingers to big hands. Follow the left-facing corner  to the top.

I have been eyeing this one for a while and finally gave it a go with my friends Merry and Sam. I bailed due to a questionable chuck of rock. We climbed

Obe Won Canobe

, and Sam cleaned this line on rappel. I went back up on TR to retrieve some gear then found my self at the top after tunneling through the chimney. The climbing was great! I had to come back and make it official. Today, I was able to free/lead it clean, then Josh freed all the moves on second. This is a super fun route and is not as sketchy as it looks either. Having a #8 will help.

Little Hulkster is a great, warm-up OW that forces you to do some hand fist stacks.

Climb a short gully/chimney for 10 feet, then move up and left on a good flake and gain the main crack. Grunt up the crack on mostly good hands for about 100' until you can move left to the P1 belay ledge for

Obe Won Canobe

and the chains.

Start in an alcove just right of

Lessons in Discipline

. Climb the shallow, right-facing dihedral to the top, and rap the slung tree. We felt that this route has 3 distinct crux sections. They are all moving through small roofs. Laybacks, hand jams, and stemming will help.

This has great gear on mostly solid rock. There are some loose blocks still, but we decided to leave them as they can be avoided.

P1. Start in the flared slot just left of "

Little Hulkster

". Climb to the anchors on various moves with great protection (5.7).

P2. This is my favorite, Climb the corner with various stemming, crack moves, and many gear placement options. Pull the roof, move climbers right on a shelf, and climb stacked blocks to the rap anchor tree for Lessons in Discipline (5.8). Belay here.

P3. Use C0/C1 technique for 15 feet OR climb the fist crack to the left and hand traverse just below the OW then move into the OW. Taller people will have no problem freeing this at 5.8.  Bring knifeblades or micronuts if you plan on doing the AID variation. Climb the OW to the top (short/cheatable 5.8). An old #4.5 BD cam is perfect.

It's easiest to start from the right, traversing left to gain the vertically oriented pockets. A fixed head can be backed up with small TCUs or offset cams. The crux and steepest part of the climb is protected by three bolts.

Hidden Valley Offwidth is a hands to offwidth splitter that ends at a set of slings around a large pinnacle. The splitter is slightly offset. The slings are located to the right of the splitter, and are easily visible from the ground.

Pitch 1:

Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.

Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall.  Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side.  Protect with a finger sized cam.  Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other.  Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect.  Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2:

Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge.  Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof.  Then move left around the roof to the top.

Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.

The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right).  A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.

Start up the black, stained face following a shallow, fractured, and flaring, crack system.  There are two bolts near the bottom of the climb.  Continue up the face protecting in the occasional slot that appears.  Climb up to where the crack seams out.  At this point, you stem upwards between the small, right-facing dihedral on the left and the seam on the right.  Continue stemming until the dihedral ends and you can reach left to the top of a pillar and mantle to it.  Finish with face and fingers to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.

It is recommended that you move right and climb Acropolis, a beautiful, hand crack that starts at this level on the wall, as a second pitch.

The pro on this climb is interesting, safe, but interesting.  I kind of wondered why the bottom, where the climbing wasn't that hard, had bolts, but the middle section, where the pro is more difficult does not.

Down and right of Cliff Break Fern is this obvious wide crack that starts off moderate with a final crux OW/squeeze below a large chockstone at the top. Some may want a larger cam or two (5-7”) for the top section.

Climb the straight-in splitter starting with good hands which widens to off-fist (crux) then back to good hands to the top.

The climb was named for the rope-stretch whipper Manuel took while seconding. His hair zapping up in the style favored by fight promoter Don King.

Quoted from

Grand Junction Rock

:

"Begin in a recessed portion of the wall at a lichen covered vertical finger/hand crack. Climb the crack to the point where it is possible to move left, and gain a detached flake system. Follow the flake upward towards a big roof with an offwidth. Avoid the roof by moving right into a broken crack, then climb fingers up to a second roof. Pass the roof to the top in a nice, right-facing dihedral (160 feet).

Decent:

walk north, and descend the gully".

The crux is transitioning from the OW into the final 20 feet of hand crack. Most of the route has been cleaned up and is safe.

The crux is in the first 15 feet. The gear is all there but tricky. Taller people will cruise this section. Climb up under the roof, turn the left side, continue on hand jams, and mantel the finish.

P1: Begin with stemming and hand/finger jams in a short shallow chimney. Continue up the hand/fist crack, milking stems and chimney moves until the pinnacle tops out and you have to commit to the fist crack (crux). Good crack climbing brings you to the top of a small pinnacle/ledge and 2 bolts with chains.

P2: Continue up (5.6-5.8) on any number of variations through less-than-stellar rock and teetering blocks to the top.

I would recommend missing the second pitch and rappelling on a single 60m from the chains at the top of P1.

This route has cleaned up nicely and has a lot of great climbing.

Use a variety of stems, stacks, scumming, and OW moves to ascend this. The crux is transitioning from chimney to OW moves. There is still some loose stuff, so belay in a safe spot.

The S-crack to the horizontal is a little chossy, but OK. Continue up the wide crack until you can step left to a handcrack, which continues to the top of the pinnacle (where we found a bail cord;  unclear which side they came up). Anyhow, walk over to the mail wall and continue up the shallow, double cracks until it becomes a chimney and belay, about 150'.

P2: Continue up the right-leaning chimney until it squeezes you out onto a ledge.  (You could belay here.) Continue up the easier cracks on the right side near the roof and then up the last corner to obvious easy ground (or you run out of rope? I used a 70m and had maybe 25 feet left). We scrambled the next 50 feet up and walked out to the left, following some cairns.

Both pitches had some good rock, a spicy move, and good adventure. There is loose stuff on ledges, and bring some long draws.  Try it out and offer an opinion!

This is a great, long route that throws a bit of everything at you. The first crux is going through an offwidth with a small roof to gain hands for a while, and the second crux is turning a this roof in a corner.

If you just climbed

Made In The Shade

, how about an easy OW? Maybe this has been done, but there was a lot of thick lichen and some basic cleaning that would suggest not.  (I kept thinking some clippers would be handy.) This is a nice enough climb, it will clean up with a bit more traffic.  It is no harder than

MITS

, IMHO.

Hike past the Sunday and Fortress Walls and continue to the  Hidden Valley Wall. Walk past a deep alcove near the center of the Wall and continue on for about 80 feet. Start in a right-facing dihedral where a white pegmatite dike meets the ground.

Pitch 1: Jam up a slightly bushy corner with good hands and stems to where it starts to flatten out. Continue up into a wide chimney and belay on a flat chockstone with slings, 5.8, 80 feet.

Pitch 2: Classic. Continue up the chimney for a short distance then pass a bulge to gain the nice hand crack above. Follow this crack straight up for about another 50 feet before reaching the crux bulge. Plug in good gear and pull through the bulge as the crack narrows and belay above on a good ledge. 5.10b, 150 feet.

Pitch 3: Continue straight up following the crack past a roof using hand and fist jams (two #3 Camalots useful). Pass the roof and continue via hand crack to easier ground and belay. 5.10, 75 feet.

Descent: Scramble up to flat ground atop the cliff and walk to the climbers left at the top of the route and contour along the rim. Downclimb 3rd class for 20 feet into the gully and locate 2 Metolius eye bolts.  Rappel 180 feet to the ground or 165 feet to a ledge and down climb 15 feet of 3rd class.

It looked so good from the ground....

This is the steep face and splitter roof crack next to

Summer Solstice

. Begin by climbing that route up to the "elephant foot" roof. Once high enough to step out onto the lip, move right and climb sustained 5.10 face up to a ledge and the roof splitter. Pull the 5 foot roof with good hands that narrow to ring locks before the crack doglegs right.

The roof crack is very sharp, even the most seasoned of Unaweep hard folks might consider taping up.

This is a great variation to the standard finish of

Summer Solstice

- if leading this- avoid the face climbing down low and traverse much higher at a horizontal crack.

I hope to come back and add a few bolts to the lower face, it's a fun TR and will be a great, sustained lead.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hidden Valley Wall