Line starts on a lower slab flake then follows a line of bolts between the two caves on the Primal Wall. Well protected and a great warmup route. Isolated lower band of chert requires some continued cleaning. Find a belay stance that keeps the belayer well off to the side. This is still a new route. Besides being the only route between the two caves, this line can be identified by the large spear point like, left facing flake that provides a ledge for clipping the last bolt. Two bolt anchor with chains is another three meters above.

Caveman

Primal

Primal is a well protected, warmup, sport route that provides a nice crux near the top. The short, lower slab requires a series of easy smears to gain access to the vertical face and first bolt. Easy 5.6 - 5.7 climbing provides good holds for making chest high clips. Then, towards the top, the 5.8 crux forces the use of some balance and smaller vertical edges, below the last bolt, then small feet, slopers, and a high step to gain the rap anchors, at the last 5.9 crux, just above the last bolt.

Primal Wall is the first rock exposure north of Providence parkinglot, along the Katy Trail, that displays an obvious resessed cave structure. Several cedar trees offer shade year around but warm, late summer days should be avoided.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Primal Wall