Start standing with both hands matched on an obvious smiley face rail in the middle of the overhang. Campus left to a jug and then do a very challenging mantle using a hidden dish. A Long Island testpiece.A variation named 'Chang' starts the same as 'Smokin Jacks' but angles right to the lip and tops out far to the right using a hidden crimp. This is around v8.Both of these are phenomenal lines on stunningly high quality rock.Note: This climb is only climbable around low tide, give or take a bit. At high tide, the base is usually covered in water.

Smokin' Jack

Bo-Jangle

Fisherman's Friend

Big Cast

Fisherman's Friend Stand

High Tide Traverse

Wetness The Dryness

The Downclimb

Father And Son

Crab Pot

Six Swans A-Swimming

Start sitting with both hands matched on the large, crystally block. Make a long pull left to a thin rail and then continue up and left, finishing just right of 'Father And Son'. A quality line with interesting movement on a nice assortment of holds, though not quite as good as the climb that used to be here before the rock exfoliated. 

Use the left and right sidepulls as you work your feet up, shifting your weight from side to side until you top off

Low start at small but positive holds leads to big moves with an easy top out.

Start sitting with both hands matched on a large flake at 3 feet as you find comfortable. Throw a high left heel up and make a long move to a small crimp with the right hand. Fall into a sloper with the left and use it to gain a better edge for the right hand. A long move leads to good crimps and a tall top out.Though the movement is interesting, the awkward rock at the start and less than comfortable holds make this boulder only so so.

Start crouching with hands on opposing sidepulls in the roof. Throw to the good jug and then finish straight up on good holds. A nice easier alternative for those not strong enough to do the full line.You can also start this matched on the jug. This variation goes at v1ish and makes for a nice warmup.

Start with a left foot on the small ledge and left hand on the sidepull, hanging to the right. Match your right hand with the left on the starting sidepull and move the right too to match with the left on the small starting ledge. Next to the starting sidepull is a small crimp for your right hand. Keep moving a foot over to the left ledge in order to get to the left crimps or go for the left crimps first. While on the left crimps get both feet on the ledge. Get your feet up as high as possible and get both hands on the sidepulls. Heel hook with the left foot and top off by standing up.

Start standing or sitting and climb up the obvious slabby groove in the middle of the west face of the boulder. This is also the most frequently used downclimb.

Start sitting with both hands matched on the bottom of the obvious right-facing flake feature. A few crimps and perhaps a gaston lead to some positive slopers higher up and a relatively easy finish. A very high quality climb with fun movement on friendly holds. 

Start sitting, as for 'Big Cast', with both hands matched on a large flake at 3 feet however you see fit. Angle left on slopers to join the finish of 'Fisherman's Friend'.An interesting moderate, but the rock at the base makes the starting moves fairly awkward.

Start sitting as for 'Fisherman's Friend' with both hands matched on a low slot/pockety hold at 2.5-3 feet. A move up and right to a good gaston leads to a long lock off move to a slopey sidepull. Make a big move to an incredible rounded sloper and continue compressing your way up slopey holds until finally reaching better holds higher up.Complex and intricate beta and great rock make this one of Long Island's best lines and must do if you're in the area.

This large boulder is arguably the signature boulder of Long Island. This block offers around 15 climbs, with a variety of styles and angles, on high quality granite. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fat Boy Boulder