Long sustained route.  Positive holds, the crux is at the roof.

Aboriginal Design

Haiku

Middle Passage

Unknown 7

Relics

Mass Wasting

Abandonings

Casting Stones

Skynet

Venga Venga!

Stones in the Pathway

Start in a loose but easy corner, then launch up steepish terrain with the usual basalt entablature blocky sloper jugs.

This route is listed as 7. Project in the Tieton guidebook. Clearly it's been finished and is climbed fairly often, so I'm mostly posting this here to see if anyone who knows who did it and what they named it wants to volunteer any information. Obviously I don't know the official rating but it seemed easier than Relics.

Short but good.  3 bolts.  Climb the seam through the left hand side of the roof.

Very fun climbing, similar holds and movement to all the other neighboring routes. This one is distinguished by a crux moving through a bulge in the middle of the route followed by tricky, balancey climbing through a corner pulling onto the orange/tan upper face. A knee bar as you emerge from the corner can be helpful.

Very cool to climb on two distinct rock types on this route with the finish being straight up face climbing on a crack/flake feature and the lower part being tricky 3d and body positioning intensive climbing on wavy slopers.

Well protected, positive holds.  Crux starts as the rock becomes steeper.  Finish at anchor set below roof.

Climb 5.8 in a corner up to a two-bolt anchor, then continue up moderate terrain with some moves past a roof at ~5.10d or so to a ledge where the route cuts right and through the crux roof.  Clip a long draw on the bolt below the roof and set off on the adventure.

Watch out for a hollow-sounding block that you end up hugging with both hands.  Good holds bring you to the next bolt, but things get quite a bit more difficult for the next two clips.  Sloping holds below the roof get you to some critical, tough-to-find crimpers just above the roof.

If you can make it to a good jug at the next clip, you just need to keep it together on the final headwall with small edges to the chains.  Great route.

Begin on the shared start with Middle Passage (a 5.5 unprotected corner unless you bring trad gear), clip the intermediate anchor and then head up and right into steep terrain with sloping holds.  Continue up over a bulge and into a cool corner feature.  After pulling through the corner, move around a prow to the left on good holds and then pull a few moves past the last bolt on the vertical upper wall.

Steep entabulature sloper wrangling. There is a sweet roof at the top of the climb where the rock changes from entabulature to a big orange/tan face with a tiny seam running through it. The bolt is right where you need it and clippable before entering the crux.

The crux revolves around managing to get your paws into the couple spots where the seam opens up enough for marginal jamming. Crux may seem very hard for the grade at first but dumbs down with beta. Similar in difficulty to Aboriginal Designs.

Scramble up to a small ledge and climb the blocky face to another ledge just left of the obvious roof.  Make a short traverse right, then climb the corner up to the steep and exposed finish.

Start in the hand crack just right of the pictographs. Climb past 2 ledges and into the overhanging crux. Use runners as needed. A 60M ROPE COULD WORK, BUT TIE A KNOT. Fixed clips on chain anchors.

Slopers, edges, and pinches carry you through steep rock over a couple minor roofs. There is a rattly finger / ringlock sized crack at the top you might want to bring a couple cams for in the .4-.75 range to avoid a ~15 ft runout. On my red point I forgot the cams and it wasn't a big deal, the crack is about 10a.

The crux is a cool sequence starting with traversing under a small roof using some underclings and the slopy lip of the roof and then doing some really, super balancey climbing through a few more bolts til you arrive at another, easier roof beneath the final crack. Great climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Wall