Squat start with the right hand on a good pinch/ crimp edge, and the left hand on a sloping crystal to the left. Pull on with difficulty and make a hard move up left hand then stab at a gaston with the right. From this position keep it together and bust out a few more big moves before topping out.This is a lower and full value start into "Cilley Old Man". The first two moves may be the hardest, but the top V5 section is not to be underestimated. 

Miley Cilley

Jerry's Traverse

Garden of Your Mind Sit

Authentic Flavor

Right Train Track

Cilley Flake Sit

Mud Puddle of Your Mind

Garden of Your Mind

Land Shark

The Sword of Mercy

Cilley Old Man

Ricochet

Wheel of Mercy

Cilley Groove

Pass the Ammunition

Left Train Track

B. Mills

Powder Monkey

Cilley Puddle

Cilley Flakes

Start in sort of a squat position and climb the large obvious flake. The crux is approaching the top out. The holds turn from jugs to crimps then a sloper at the top out. If you figure your feet out it will be easier, maybe a little stiff at the grade.On the smaller moat boulder.

Begin as for Ricochet traverse to the start of Left Train Track and finish up that problem, this route is hard and since the hard part of the route is a traverse it requires great core strength, the crux is stating low between the left and right train track. This rock is on the sharper side but it is fun none the less. 

  Located on the smaller boulder past The Moat Boulder

Sit start below the jug for Garden of Your Mind and Cilley Flakes on a left hand sidepull and the right hand in a finger lock (Both holds look like pockets). work out the feet and cross to a good hold, unwind the feet to gain the big jug. Finish on Garden of your Mind.

An awesome traverse sit-starting in the crack used for "Right Train Tracks" and traversing rightwards past "Ricochet" and finishing up with the crux being "The Sword of Mercy". This problem has some very unique feet first climbing and some incredible moves.

Start on obvious chalked jug and make a long Left hand move up to the obvious pocket then make right hand move to a good hold out right then top out on jusg. It doesnt look like a jug but go to it it is. The crux is the first move which requires funky feet I would recommend a back-step with you left foot and a high foot on the chalked hold out right with you right foot. 

  Located on the smaller boulder past the moat boulder.

Sit start below the jug for Garden of Your Mind and Cilley Flakes on a left hand sidepull and the right hand in a finger lock (Both holds look like pockets). work out the feet and cross to a good hold, unwind the feet to gain the big jug. Finish on Cilley Flakes.  Personally I thought that this was harder than going into Garden of Your Mind because of the intimidating topout and the length of the route.

Sit-start in the mud puddle with left hand on a bad sloping rail and right hand in a tight two-finger pocket.  Figuring out how to get off the ground and generate movement with the left-hand dab-free is the first crux.  Once some beta is acquired, snag a pretty good slot and then a series of low moves gains some nice jugs. From these good holds head straight up "Garden of Your Mind" using a good left-hand sidepull and the crack which offers a variety of different holds. The topout is a bit insecure!

Start on the same jug as for Cilley Flakes, instead of going out right to the large flakes work straight up over the bulge into the crack above. The crux is getting into the crack. Reach the crack using core tension, a sloppy crimp and a good side pull.

Start as for Jerry's Traverse but continue over to  Cilley Groove and top out there. This route includes the crux of Jerry's Traverse but that is not the crux of the route, the crux comes after the end of Jerry's Traverse, when the holds turn to hard crimps on slightly overhanging terrain. This section will challenge all of your climbing strengths and weaknesses and I promise when you are done with this route you will be pumped to the point where Cilley Groove will feel extra hard. 

  Located on the smaller boulder past The Moat Boulder. 

  I have not done this problem I just thought it should be added.

Sit start on the huge jug on the right side of the face which faces the road. Pick from a few good feet for the right foot and a few bad smears for your left. Get some momentum and execute a huge deadpoint up to a good but really sharp hold way up and right. Core up and hold some gnarly tension! Once here, left-hand foot match and reach up to some good holds at the lip. Find a high foot and reach up right hand to a good hold. Figure out how to topout!

Start on a sharp/jagged hold at about 6 feet. Get a right foot and then throw for a crimpy pocket above the starting hold. Get some feet and go for a sidepull left towards Cilley Flake. Drop knee your right leg to the left of the starting hold, grab a intermediate sidepull above the crimpy pocket and throw for a jug on the lip. Top out going right towards Cilley Groove with a heel. 

  I just cleaned the top out for this problem on 5/7/2014, it should be good to go! 

  I should add the route was named that because an old timer pointed the line out to me saying he wasn't sure if anyone had done it.

This problem climbs the right side of the slightly overhanging main wall that faces the road. Start from a sit start on a big flake, then move up to small crimps. Hit the crimps right or it becomes a hell of a lot harder. The crux is after you make the first move left and put a foot on the starting hold and rocking up with your right hand to the next series of crimps. The top out is mildly slopey, but you can easily bring a foot up because the right slide of this boulder slopes down, and it is a good foot.

A tight low sit start on a a shitty flake underneath Left Train Track. Make a huge move to a jug, and then figure out how to climb through Jerry's Traverse backwards. After you're through that nonsense shake out on the jug of Right train Track, and climb through Authentic Flavor, which leads to the last crux, Sword of Mercy. If anyone finds a better way to start this rig it would be a four star instant classic.AND NO, you do not get to go up to the jugs above Jerry's Traverse and then downclimb Right Train Track. THIS IS BOULDERING AND THERE ARE RULES.

Circumventing the Jerry's Traverse crux on this boulder is punishable by communal shame and the downgrading of your 8a.nu profile status. Route poster not liable for any ridicule, shame, or emotional burdens brought on by you climbing another silly traverse. Alteration of beta voids warranty, see restrictions where they apply. 

 

Climb the dihedral that is slightly overhung, the beginning is tough but the real crux comes when it becomes overhung, the holds get much smaller and require good balance and core strength, this is ultra fun if you like crimpy moves, the top out is not too bad. 

This is a route I cleaned off over the winter and is now finally climbable. 

  Start on jugs under the big slopey shelf and make a long move to the shelf. Rearrange your feet and fire to the crimp (crux). Once you stick the crimp, move your feet up, and go to the jug at the lip and make a really fun top out. 

  The bottom of this can be a little wet but I made a stick bridge to keep your pad out of the manky moss.

Stand start on the chalked hold at chest height (Im 6 feet) make a long right hand move up to a crimp and bump it to the bigger hold. Move left hand to the crimp you previously had your right hand on, from here move your feet up and make another long move to a good crimp with your left hand up and left. Settle your feet and top out. 

  I feel this route either had holds break or is sandbagged, After doing it again I think it is closer to a hard V2 then a V1, but maybe I am just soft :). 

  Located on the smaller boulder past The Moat Boulder.

Squat start on the chalked holds, pull on and move right to a good two finger crimp Then make the crux move up and left to an under-cling or crimp, depending on what you like most. Then enjoyable moves lead to the dirty top. 

  I plan on cleaning the top better soon.

On the low overhanging face across from the Moat Boulder, start on the low far left jug, as for Pass the Ammunition, and traverse the seam right until  you get to the ledge. Step off or do an easy top out.   This is a good warm-up for the harder routes on the front face. The base suffers from wetness, so watch where you step or place your pads.

The full line into the classic flakes. Slide on down into the small cave, sometimes it is flooded so get at it when you can.Sit start with some foot trickery and a sloping left hand pinch and a good 2-3 finger pocket for the right hand. Make a hard cross to another pocket-like hold in the crack and then make another hard move to a flat crimp rail. Figure out how to reach the jug, before turning on the kill switch and blasting your way through the rest of the flakes into a tricky top section.The second half of this climb is "Cilley Flakes". The first half is shared with "Mud Puddle of Your Mind".

work in progress - western sister to the Moat Boulder

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Ricochet Boulder