Climb to the top of flake. Move up to thin horizontal and traverse right 3 bolts to reach a beautiful thin crack which widens from tips to hands and leads to an anchor.

Winged Eel Fingerling

Aspiring

Roger's Spire

Steamroller

Zero Gully

THE MISSION

Roger's Arete

Climb up a blocky corner till you are able to crawl inside of the chimney proper.  Climb until you reach the tangle of anchor webbing, clip it and top out the pillar.  I find it easier to be lowered off and have you second TR it to clean the gear.

Climb up the obvious inside corner clipping a few pins till under the roof.  Protect and power undercling out right till you can reach out and grab the jugs/exit crack.  Terrible feet under the roof

Classic!    Undercling and Jam up an overhanging and strenuous left arching crack to an exciting move into a left facing corner's above the head single pad undercling and a side pull chicken wing "rest" before moving left again to more pumpy moves and a stopper crux using a few potential sets of beta to a piton and a heroic rock over mantle and a bolt anchor.

 Pitch two is dirty but angles left on the Bucket Loader finger crack to the trees. Step right to a piton and clip the lichen as protection up a left slanting crack.

Entered more as the "dividing line" between Caterpillar Wall and Diamond Wall than for any other reason.

From a 15 foot high V groove climb a thin crack to a bolt and very thin steep face with a ring bolts and black water streaks that look like the ones on a more popular 5.13b on Cathedral. After clipping the last bolt angle left on  another crack to a two bolt anchor.

The left side of the Caterpillar Wall is marked by a huge leaning pillar that becomes a detached spire at its top.  Roger's Arete diagonals up the obvious arete on the right side of the pillar, passes a ledge, and continues up the lower-angle arete to the top of the spire.  Only the lower section is bolted, and a semi-detached block leans out from the steepest part of the lower arete.  Getting off that block felt awkward.  It is probably easier if you are tall. Handren reported 5 bolts; I remember only 3.  After the bolts and a ledge, easy climbing leads to the spire's upper face and arete (5.9).  There are shallow cracks on the face, but you may need to stem from the arete to the main wall in order to place pro in a vertical crack inside the chimney.  At the top of the pillar is a large block, possibly detached, slung with much tat.  Belay here or continue up Aspiring.

This steep wall is home to the multi-starred climbs "Winged Eel 5.12d", "The Mission 5.13b" and "Steamroller 5.12 a/b", as well as "Roger's Spire 5.5" one of the first climbs on the cliff, FA Roger Martin.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. The Caterpillar Wall