Insomnia is a heady lead, with steep, thin, and runout climbing on the menu. Start as you would for the Terminator, but at the top of the pillar, move left over blocky terrain towards the roof. Expect hard climbing for a bit, but it backs off towards the top.

Insomnia

Rising Sun

Ninja Warrior

Vertebrae

A White Bread World

Inz and Outz

Righteous Dump

Dihedral of Dagmar

Slaughterfall

Giardia Crack

Midwestern Gangster

Phlegm Of Fury

Most Excellent

Bloomin' Union

Uncle Fister

Original Sin

Earth Diver

Tombstone

Pyrrhic Victory

Central Scrutinizer

Noggin 'Nocker

More Anus Than Heinous

Terminator

Outrageous

Righteous Pump

Spite and Malice

The Tyrant

Orphan Blood Cocktail

Just Another G

Bus Stop to Nowhere

Thick and Thin

Mental Health

Turkish Tickling

The Sword

Blade Runner

Certified Freak

Darren's Route

Bloomin' Idiot

What are you on?

Earth Puller

Guacamole

Flashflood

Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty

Dirty Deed

Fool's Progress

Follow your Doubt

I'm On My Bike

Morticia

Direct Tyrant (Var.)

Butternuts

Nervous Breakdown

An infamous, in your face Waterfall pitch, Spite and Malice has everything a route needs to be a classic. A heads up start on suspect rock demands a certain nimbleness and leads you to a wide, obtuse stem box. Work your way up the left finger crack, (which turns into Turkish Tickling) until you can traverse into the right hand finger crack (5.10). Keep moving up this crack as it grows ever steeper! Look for face hold relief, but be ready to jam your heart out. A sustained pitch that delivers a full body workout.

On the far left hand side of the Left Wall, this pitch climbs a chunky right facing dihedral with double cracks up high. Climb blocky rock to wavering hands and finger crack. After the crux up high, instead of moving left into gnarly left facing dihedral, move right onto the face and follow thin crack, and good horizontal holds to the anchor of Ninja Warrior.

Ninja Warrior is the dihedral to the right of Rising Sun and a significant step up in difficulty and quality. Start up blocky rock and climb towards the finger crack dihedral passing a couple ledges. Once in the dihedral expect tight fingers with big moves in between good locks. The upper section is sustained for the grade, and may feel more like 5.11a during an onsight.

This is one of my favorite, all natural gear pitches of climbing anywhere.  Easily toproped after climbing the Sword.  A short bit of steep hands leads to finger crack which takes you under the roof.  Plug in a black alien in a seam to the right, then bust out some wild moves out left, and undercling back right again to turn the roof.  One more crux section guards the chains.

Begin with fun and moderate climbing on blocky and solid rock.  Continue up to bolts on a clean face and dihedral on white rock.  Crimp, stem, high-step, and finesse your way through the low crux on the beautiful white rock, then catch a shake for the pumpy upper section.  Launch into steep and featured rock, pulling roofs and steep faces on sinker pockets.  Beautiful climbing and awesome movement.

The first 100% bolted route at the waterfall.  The first three moves off the deck are likely the crux of the route.  Move up the dihedral onto the steep face.  This leads into fantastic sports pulling on brilliant rock.  Continue up the arete.  The tenth bolt is on the left side of the arete.

climb awkward flare below Fister but turn roof to the right, diagonal up to thin cracks to big roof then head right to Giardia anchors.

Start as for Smoke Big Doobs, but quickly hang a left and wade through a little funk to gain the nice looking dihedral. 

  Crux is fingers in a corner, which gradually eases up until the crack peters out. Float up and left through gas pocketed face climbing. Stoppers, small gear, and some patience will serve you well on your way to the anchors.

Slaughterfall climbs the blunt face and prow right of flash flood.  Start as Flash flood, moving right after about 25 feet to clip the first of a few bolts.  Continue up the face onto a nice slab.  from the top of the slab, gaze up at the improbable face above and summon your creativity, balance, and tenacity for the run to the chains.  Beautiful moves on immaculate stone with awesome new-school waterfall features.

Giardia Crack is a superb, all natural gear line and a classic medium for Waterfall sports action. The crux involves some powerful moves over the roofy bulge on positive holds. This is one of my favorite pitches on the Left Wall. Always exciting and savory.

 This route starts above the obvious little spring that trickles out at the base of the wall, which also explains the name. From the nineties into Y2K climber’s would maintain a small pool to keep thier crag beers somewhat cool, however, while accomplishing the first goal, the residual spring water on the beer cans has made more than a few climber’s sick.

Climb a slightly unpleasant off fist size crack to the roof which has a very thin crack splitting it. Plug in a couple pieces of gear, and get ready to crank out some awesome moves which seem puzzling until you start into it. Continue up the dihedral into a fantastic hands section. After that the crack begins to tighten down again into another little .10+/.11- section which guards the anchors.

Multiple people have ripped their crux gear #.5. Make sure you have some gear in before the roof. See comments below.

A new cleaner version of an old chossy rte called nitrogenous waste,

Phlegm of Fury starts to the right of Guacamole. Climb up blocks to short layback, then up and over small bulge.  Work your way up the large flake system on the right side of the stembox.  Once you are standing on top of the large flake, move left to gain the finger crack and sharp tips.  Several desperate locks will get you past the crux, and keep trending right.  There is another little crux up high that should get your attention again if you let it wander.  After this crux, continue up the corner, placing gear in the crack and in bomber horizontal gas pockets.  As the rock becomes more pocketed, the character of the climb changes, relying more on horizontal edges and pockets than only the crack.

start up a funky chimney with some awkward jams. grab a sharp blockette and pull through a slot to a no hands ledge. use long slings down low or you can pull your rope through to reduce drag. get some pieces up high before you take off. theres a slab on the right and an arete on the left. some cool stemming gets you up to a rest. .2/RPs. then the crux , i wont tell you much but use your feet and push really hard. the gear is tiny and its all pretty good. its only 5.11, but you'll need to sack up for this all natural gear line, think mayflower direct but harder.

A powerful,technical,and thin steep corner, with good but intricate protection. Very engaging the whole way.

The only offwidth in the main part of the waterfall.  A striking #4-#5 crack in a left-facing corner

if you like heady arete climbs this is it. standard 25ft of waterfall climbing to the arete proper. bouldery start with deadpionts, slaps, gas pockets, credit card crimping and layback smears. if you get on this route and wonder why there are 2 bolts and a perfectly good crack 3ft to the right, its because to do the arete as an arete at no point can you reach over and place gear. expect delicate, reachy and balancy moves. all the gear is in good horizontals . i wouldnt say its runout but if you peel off  its gonna be big, but safe

Make some technical and interesting moves through blocky but solid rock to gain a sweeping low-angle fingers and tips crack.  The feet are slick and the crack is sharp, but the rock is excellent.

Starts right of the mini-tombstone.  Climb loose steep start to better climbing above.

Pyr·rhic Vic·to·ry  

noun \ˈpir-ik\ˈvik-t(ə-)rē\:   A victory with such a devastating cost that it is tantamount to defeat. 

  Start in the same spot as Vertebrae but move up the bolted face. Follow the bolts to a shallow dihedral, and up to the splitter roof crack, resisting the urge to move right onto Vertebrae. After pulling the middle of the roof continue up overhanging ground to the chains. 

  Taller people will probably find the bottom crux much easier than I did because their height should obviate dynoing. 

  Protection in the middle dihedral is mostly small and can be tricky to place, so beware.  

  I should also mention that while cleaning this route I wailed on the seemingly detached roof blocks (including the Vertabrae roof) with a 3' wrecking bar and they are completely solid.

A good hard pitch to the left of Turkish Tickling and Spite and Malice. Start out on loose, though moderate climbing for twenty feet or so and then move left towards a small roof and dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the top. Thin at the top.

Seldom Climbed 5.10 to the left of The Tyrant

Start on Uncle Fister, traverse right to chunky flare, rejoining Fister at the top

Terminator is perhaps the all natural gear, test piece crack at the Waterfall: Really cool climbing that will challenge all parts of your game. Begin as for Guacamole, but once through the chossy roof band (arrange gear carefully here to prevent rope drag) traverse left on a series of awesome buckets to the crack. You can't miss it. Solid jams to a stance, then full-on liebacking through a bone-crunching tips section to a final boulder problem. Hasta la vista, baby.

Outrageous is to the left of Morticia, in a very shallow and shady mini amphitheater. Climb up steep, broken rock with marginal gear towards a chunky looking roof. The beginning can be a bit unnerving because of the trust factor involved in several large flakes for both pulling on and gear... Once the main crack has been gained, you will enjoy perfect gear and excellent climbing passing jugs every body length or so. A long, enjoyable pitch if you can make it past the start.

A straightened out and much improved version of Righteous Dump. The old line was so wandering it really detracted from what is otherwise a nice route. It started on Fister, traversed under MATH, went up the nice dihedral, and then at the big roof traversed even further right to the Giardia anchor.  

  In 2015, I added 2 bolt direct start, put an anchor 15' above the roof capping the nice dihedral, and cleaned some loose blocks off the line.  

  Start just left of Giardia Crack, 2 bolts (5.10+) and then a run out but very easy romp (5.7) to the base of the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral is standard fun 5.10 Waterfallness. When you get to the roof instead of bailing out right as for the original line, buck up and claw your way up and over(5.11+). The gear is excellent to the roof and then there's a bomber small cam placement immediately above it, after which you make an exciting run for the anchor with nothing but air below your feet.

Shares a start with Dirty Deed, but traverses left to awesome off-fingers splitter

Orphan blood cocktail starts on a face with finger crack just left of the Dagmar/ SBBSBD start and heads straight up to a wide, blunt prow. Technical compression and crimping continue for five bolts. The blunt prow leads into a steep featured dihedral.

An arete?  A dihedral? Both?  This smashed in arete combines beautiful movement on a striking feature with bullet basalt.   

  Begin as for Follow your Doubt and climb up to the first bolt.  Continue through the bolts and finish up, pl;acing a few pieces

The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator.  Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole.  Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner. 

  Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line.  A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.

To the left of Flashflood, and shares anchor. Climb broken face to gain tips/finger crack in left facing dihedral. Continue up the excellent crack to top.

Typical far-left 5.10.  Loose start to really nice crack on grippy rock.

Turkish Tickling climbs the splitter tips and fingers crack left of Spite and Malice.  The initial broken finger-crack and flare of Spite and Malice leads directly to the Turkish Tickling Crack.  Stay in the fingercrack and continue up to the Spite and Malice anchors, rejoining that line for only the last 5 feet or so.

Interesting start to get established in the splitter.  I reached out to put the first piece in the finishing splitter from a wide stem.  I really loved the way the crack on the right opened up from medium nut to #1 camalot, very striking.

To the right of the Sword you will notice two bolts; one jacked, one “good”. The route starts up the face and arete. Turn the corner and look for a thin crack splitting the face. A good wire (#5 BD?) here and some harder moves take you to some jugs and a steep thin crack to the anchors. A very good pitch if you can figure out where to climb. Resist the temptation to stray too far right.  Bolted anchor at the true top.

Certified Freak is the left of the two tempting smashed-in aretes.  A quality Waterfall-style mixed route, bring your quickdraws and microcams.  Begin on moderate and fun climbing left of Follow Your Doubt and make your way up to the first bolt.    Rest up and launch into the thin and interesting crux sequence, clipping bolts and placing a couple small pieces.  Above the crux, things remain interesting as the route follows unique and good rock to a two-bolt anchor.

Another nice pumpy crack climb.  Your experience on this climb will depend on the length of your legs and the size of your hands.  (Big hands and short legs would be a bad combination.) 

Nice route just left of Bloomin' Union. Start in the left facing dihedral a 5' left of the Bloomin' Union finger crack start. When you get past the blocky start move left and up the thin dihdral. There are plenty of nice face holds to supplement the tiny corner. Gear is good but small and spaced. Join the the top of Bloomin' Union for the last 15', shares anchor.

Located left of inz and outz. Go up fractured finger splitter left of tree. Negotiate the cool triangular roof and pull into slab micro splitter with thin pro.  Then short off fingers section where the rock steepens to a rest in the corner. Then bust left up a super steep head wall with a left diagonal crack feature. It's been all gear to this point now clip 2 bolts up steep face holds. Chain anchor.

Begin route by climbing first 35 ft of dagmar. Move right onto arete. Power through numerous compression arete moves to a rest.  After the rest launch into the namesake moves. Try to rip that arete off and send

Guacamole shares a start with the hard splitter "Terminator" (which is just left of "The Sword") and just right of Spite and Malice.  Climb up junky rock to a hand crack that thins.  Stemming crux up high is over quickly.  Kind of awkward movement on this climb.

Flashflood is one of the better warm ups on the Left Wall and features hands through fingers jamming with excellent face relief. The pitch is pretty solid, and good gear can be found throughout this all natural gear route.

This striking arete was originally toproped by Darren Singer from the anchors of Flash Flood.  It was equipped and led as a mixed climb in 2013.  The current line shares the start with Thick and Thin, traversing right under the hanging arete to gain the first of 6 bolts.  From here the line continues up the arete, moving slightly left to share just a few moves with Thick and Thin after the 4th bolt.  The climb finishes up the blank prow with two bolts.  Beautiful, difficult, and committing arete climbing on bullet stone with great friction.

Another Far Left 5.10.  Rarely climbed.   From Bloom's Sedona Rocks: Start in flared corner... pull roof on right.

Start up some hollow flakes making your way up to a small roof.  Negotiate the roof with good stems and finger locks.  Get established in the final stem box with twin tips cracks.

Follow your doubt up the twin thin cracks, stemming between and staying left when things get a bit too wide to bridge.  Technical and engaging climbing over good gear leads to the imposing roof.  Pull the roof and establish on the headwall  to reach the anchors!

  This is the same route as What are You On? but instead of finishing left on the 5.12 headwall splitter go right ten feet to the Midwestern Gangster anchors.

Interesting climbing over thin gear on a white face left of Uncle Fister

A quality bolted direct start to the Tyrant. 3 bolts of steep pocketed face climbing at 11d. Continue past the 5th class middle section and finish on the 11+ splitter that is the Tyrant.

Butter up and get ready to place some nuts on this gorgeous dihedral.  It's defining feature is the cute tree growing out at around the 60 foot mark.  Begin on moderate terrain slightly right of the corner and reach the base of the clean dihedral.  Fun and thoughtful stemming and edging leads to a beautiful tips to fingers crack.  Make your way around the tree and finish left on the anchors of Earth Diver

This route shares the start of Giardia Crack, but busts right just below the roof into the dihedral immediately right.  Arrange pro carefully when moving right and then up through the roof -- the rock is pretty broken and loose here.  Up higher the pro improves through a fingers crux.  Continue up face holds and easier climbing up and slightly right (avoiding the temptation to step left to Giardia Crack) to a bolted anchor.

The Left Wall is a stunning section of rock which sports heady starts that lead to wonderfully split cracks.  It is the meat and potatoes of the Waterfall area.  Many of the routes here were done by Darren Singer, Daniel Miller, and Jason Keith in the early nineties. Many of these pitches are regarded as classic. Includes all routes from Rising Sun on the left to Bladerunner on the right. 

  The Left Wall includes the historical sub areas Left End, Tombstone Area, Pinnacle Area, and the Sword Area, laid out in more detail in the Bloom/Wolfe Sedona Guide. 

  This wall gets morning sun, and afternoon shade.  But, be careful because the base is overgrown and often shady...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1.The Left Wall