From the top of the block of rock at the base follow the bolts up the lower face, past the ledge, and gain the upper face above the ledge. Work your way up to an obvious finger pocket followed by a good hand rail up and to the right. A hand rail traverse will make it possible to reach for the arete, which, together with some delicate footwork, should get you up and to the anchors.

Kalamazoo

TreeBeard's Beard

A Red Sun Rises

The Pineapple Incident

Southbound Pachyderm

Clay Pigeons

Sacred Cow

The Shotgun Shuffle

Silly Putty

Breakfast at Tiffany's

Awesome

Too Many Puppies

Vomit Free Since Ninety Three

Lee Van Cleef

Flying Cockamouse

Fancy Pants

Mr. Krinkle

Nasty, Brutish and Short

Ignoramus

Jump Start

Legendary

Quick Sand

Ghost Goop

Professor Nutbutter's House Of Treats

My Left Foot

Birdshot Crack

True Story

Graffiti Madness

Spaghetti Western

Two Thumbs Up

Sink the Pink

Flaptastic

Buckshot Crack

Tommy the Cat

Wait for It

Suit Up

Ten-legged Interspecies Cha-cha

priorities

premature Gratification

Combing Up Sars

Blue-Collar Tweekers

Land Before Spine

Thin crimpy holds (the crux) give way to an easier midsection. Gain the top through awkward side pulls.

Difficult, bouldery roof start. The rest of the route is fun, balancy, crimpy low 5.10 climbing. The crux is getting the first clip...that's the only reason I rated it a pg-13. If you have a stick clip, it's not pg-13. A fall before the first clip could result in a twisted ankle. 3rd clip to anchor is run-out but fairly easy 5.9ish climbing.

This is a fun route spotted and bolted by Josh.  There are two starts to this route.  You can start to the left and run up t0 the 2nd bolt(you can lean over and clip the first if you want, but its reachy and easier to just clip the 2nd). doing this keeps the route at 10a.  The other option is to start directly over the first bolt under the roof. Start out on the big pocket above the roof.  this makes this route substantially more difficult and puts the route in the upper 10 range.  While this way is very fun, it is also brutal on your hands and can leave your hands bloody. The rest of this route is fun as you climb to the top to a surprise cruxxy finish reaching for the top. please don't cheat around the arete to avoid this move.  the rock quality is very poor and you have a chance to knock rocks on your belayer and people below.

Super easy bottom leads to harder moves about two thirds of the way up.

Balancy start leads to an undercling. Then over the mini-roof to easier holds up higher.

Follows the arete directly to the right of Southbound Pachyderm.

Crack flanked by numerous large face holds.

Mantle onto a large blocky protrusion. From atop the block use thin tiny edges and the arete to get to the top.

Not too hard as long as you can trust your feet on the tiny edges. If not, all bets are off.

Follows a line directly left of a prominent arete. Crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Finish through the flat block of rock capping the top.

Mini-route that follows a line just to the right of a prominent arete.

Mini-route up an angled slab. Put your smearing shoes on and trust your feet. Crux is getting off the ground.

Follows a thin upwards slanting (towards the right) seam to a bomber hold. From the good hold it is straight up while avoiding anything in the broken corner on your right.

Mini-route (or highball boulder problem) starting on crimpers and aiming for the prominent pocket three quarters of the way up. From the pocket a committing but satisfying dyno to a good hold finishes off the climb (by using a small crimper higher up it is also possible to do the dyno move statically).

Starts off with an easy crack but soon enters more difficult territory on crimpers. Requires good balance and delicate foot work.

This route packs a lot of punch for its length. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts where a good sense of balance will come in handy. Finish with a burly mantle to clip the 2 bolt anchor.

Mantle onto the thin ledge then find the right combination of crimpers to move up higher towards the edge of the arete. A second mantle onto the arete gives way to an easy scramble to the top anchors.

Only the 1st half of the route is a challenge, but it packs a punch.

Fun short route.  Crux could be either from the second to third bolt placement as there are only small dimer holds or getting in and up the roof if you struggle with power. Fun route but gets super hot in the sun so climb at night or in the morning.

Crux at the bottom leads to a more friendly angle and easier moves.

Do not stray from the bolt line as there is at least one loose large block on the easier terrain to the right of the route (that could end up on your belayer's head).

Mini-route with cool edging and balancing moves. Crux is about halfway up the route.

Mini-route with good holds and interesting features. You'll find that the tricky start really complements the rest of the climb.

Starts out on crimpy shotgun style climbing in the high 5.10 - low 5.11 range.  then hits a roof with a strong dyno move and some balance technique to get that 4th clip.  Crux is pulling the roof or clipping the 4th.  The route(4th bolt placement) is designed to take you left on the face and away from the arete, climbing it this way puts it in the 11+/12- range. There is an alternative staying on the arete with good holds around the right side of the arete.  Much easier(11 b/c) but still fun. great route anyway you try it.

Start requires good balance followed by the crimpy crux. Finish with side pulls through the large block capping the climb.

Start with the crack and aim for the ledge. Leaving the ledge for the crimpers above is the crux. Keep left of the arete and up past the 3rd bolt where the climbing eases off for a comfortable clip into the anchors.

Fun dihedral to practice your lay away skills.

Follow the obvious thin seam. Dubious feet and sharp crimpers characterize this short and techy route.

Mini-route up an arete at a graffiti-marred rock face.

Goes up the middle of the face on the large boulder.

Start in the shallow scoop and end with a few final moves on the face to reach the top.

Note: these days the 1st bolt is significantly higher up from the ground since the December '10 flooding of the river scoured the bottom of the climb.

Short route with a bouldery start (crux). Awkward underclings followed by crimpers followed by more (but easier) underclings.

Follows a prominent arete.

After the mini-roof a few side pulls and a key crimper get you to the uber (sink-the-pink) pocket hold up and to the right.

Lay back on the side pull, steady those feet, and pray for that extra inch or two of reach. The grade is height-dependent.

Hard bottom and gets easier as you go up.

Corner crack in an open book easily protected with cams. Watch out for loose flakes on the face (avoid this climb if you hate loose flakes). Exit to the left of the capping roof.

Start with the prominent crack that gives way to an open book/arete. Use the arete to gain better holds up and to the right. Crux is right at the top.

Follows a thinnish crack in a prominent corner. Short trad route good for practicing nut placements.

(This is but one example of several such short and easy cracks all over the area.)

Mini-route featuring big holds and a large vertical flake.

On south side of canyon @ tukumpetsi river trail. Near end of canyon. West facing face obvious splitter starts about 10' up 2 cracks side by side

easy start, leads to no hands followed by no feet. The true start is on small rock to the right of the bush. this starts you on the/to the right of the arete and goes up over the small roof. There is an easier start if you choose to start to the left of the bush on the face of the route. Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt.  Find any type of foot and reach big. This is another typical shotgun style route. need to jump on it one time, but nothing to write home about or keep coming back for

Your first goal is the large sinker hole down and to the right of the first bolt, then up to the top using holds on the face and arete.

Follows the arete. Crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Not sure if this is an FA or not, but thought I'd add it. If it isn't, let me know and I'll edit or delete accordingly.

Follows a narrower crack set in a corner to the right of a much wider off-width. Good feet for stemming, and top out is on a solid flake with an airy mantle.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shotgun Alley