This is listed in the RMP book as the 5.11 obscurity. This is located to the right and uphill of The Poison Ivy Wall. Nearby the climb is a white piece of rope attached to what looks like pitons. I circled this in blue in the beta picture. This takes a bit of 4th class scrambling to get to the base.

Obscurity 5.11

Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks

Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle

Sumac

Werewolf Bar Mitzvah

Afro Samurai

Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)

The Itch (Sumac Variation Unknown)

The route heads up the natural line on the obvious crack just right of the dihedral of the face of the west side climbs and the main canyon face.  We put in an anchor at the top of the first pitch, and there are lots of natural choices at the top of the second pitch.  The second pitch follows up and to the right along a natural feature.  There is potential to continue past the second pitch.

This "twin crack" is the second route from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall. The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band.  Silver doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility.  Up and to the right of the doors is the Poison Ivy Wall.  The rightmost (and wider) of these two twin cracks is the line generally led.

Begin with jams and lie back moves up fifty feet to a slot.  Locate two rap hangers on the left side of the slot.  The left crack is generally considered 5.9 and more of a seam than a crack (little room for gear).  It is easy to reach between the cracks at almost any time while climbing.  It is possible to continue up the bush-filled chimney above to a pine tree anchor at a dirty 5.8.

This "second" pitch option generally blows.  Unless you enjoy mossy dirty bramble filled chimneys, lower at the anchors.

This crack is the obvious "lightning bolt" thin crack that trends left-to-right finishing in a vertical offwidth slot. Thin fingers, ring locks, and face moves traverse you up and right to a slot. Grunt up the slot, and cross a small slab to reach anchors in a roof above a large, triangular block. Watch your protection on the traverse. I've seen nuts blow out on a fall because of swing back left; thin cams work best. A direct line (5.10) is possible to the slot. Little protection exists for this option.

Per

Jeremy Joseph

: the crux is near the top when you find yourself in a deep, awkward crack. It is a very fun climb!

Eds. This is a combination of submissions put onto the 1st submission's page to reduce confusion and duplication within the database.

Climb a left-facing dihedral via jams and using big holds, flakes,

etc

.

"Werewolf Bar Mitzvah...Spooky...Scary...Boys becoming men...Men becoming wolves..." —Tracy Jordan, 30 Rock

This overhanging seam has probably been aided at some point in the canyon's obscure history, though certainly not in a very long time, and now that contemporary monikers have been added to most of the previously unnamed climbs for the sake of documentation, I figure I might as well add this to the mix.

No Name is an area where I climbed as a teenager in the late 1990s, and the place has continued to provide me with worthwhile learning experiences. I used the pitch described here to bone up on my solo-aid skills before embarking on my first solo big wall in October 2017.

While only C2 (or A1 if you hammer a Lost Arrow or knifeblade piton or two), the crux moves all have ledgefall potential, hence the R rating. This little line has it all—steep, reachy moves on thin gear, including hand-placed beaks, and also a committing mantel off of a hook. Be careful where the upper crack becomes rotten and crumbly. If you can lead this lichenous, funky and intimidating pitch with confidence, you will probably enjoy the more straightforward aid pitches that can be found in classic areas like Zion and Yosemite.

Start on the steep, fractured rock to the right of the steel doors. A fat, old eyebolt and some bore holes (tricams work well) make for a convenient anchor if solo aiding. Move left into the overhanging seam above the doors. A shallow slot that accepts a small cam is the goal and is key for protecting the moves above. Follow the thin crack to the sloping ledge that bisects the wall (a large grappling hook is very helpful for gaining the ledge). If you've had enough, you can escape right along the ledge to a 5.8 corner and the anchors at its top; these anchors are the destination either way. Otherwise, continue up the thin crack that parallels the left side of an arete. This crack is covered in lichen and has a section that's very friable before you reach the security of good gear near the top.

At the top of the headwall, it's worth setting a directional anchor (finger- to hand-size cams) before traversing to the bolted anchor off the right end of the big ledge.

This route is the first thin crack furthest most left on the Poison Ivy Wall.  The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band.  Silver doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility.  Up and to the right of the doors is the Poison Ivy Wall. This thin crack is also easily identified by a fixed pin located about fifteen feet up.

Ascend the crack using thin gear and some face moves; head left towards a v-notch and rap anchors at 5.9- (I personally think it's 5.8, but friends think it's solid 9).  A second longer top out is possible by heading into a right-leaning hand crack near the top and scurrying across a run out slab to descend off of a pine tree at 5.10+.  Some of the old time locals are sure this crack was first climbed by Kor back in the day.  Patrick Odenbeck and I cleaned out abundant vegetation (Garden Salad) on this route back in '97 to make it a regular and enjoyable addition to No Name cragging.  The arete to the left of this climb makes an excellent top rope at 5.11+.

I don't know the name or history of this route but perhaps someone (Bryan Gall?) can chime in with what they know.

Start on the steep, jug-hauling, hand jamming start of

Sumac

. Climb about 25 feet up

Sumac

and then traverse left at the obvious break where an undulating, rail system provides passage across the steep and otherwise mostly blank face. Continue onto a sloping ledge at the base of a wide chimney that has a bolt on the left face. Go up the right hand corner of the chimney by pulling into a lieback. The crack quickly turns into nice hand jams before it ends at the ledge with a two bolt anchor.

You can also continue up for one or more pitches for a No Name adventure.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Poison Ivy Wall