This is a fun route that shares anchors with

Loose and Dubious

. A handful of bolts gets you to the top.

Doobious

Z Elephant Boy

Mellow Yellow

Left Mixed 9

Headwaters of Denial

Middle 11

When The Wives Are Away...

Damnifiknow

Loose and Dubious

Buttress Climb

Right 10

Identity Crisis

Reanimation

Arete Route

Cassius Arete

This route has easy climbing protected with 5 bolts to anchors with rap rings.

Your belayer should wear a helmet. It is a new route, and some of the holds seem ready to break off.

Z Elephant Boy has steep climbing on good holds. Start right of the first bolt and traverse in. This is a strenuous and fun route.

Climb the dihedral. You might be able to use the anchors on the

Left Mixed 9

to the left.

Climb a face with a few thin moves. An occasionally tricky piece of pro keeps potential falls from getting long. Well-placed bolts supplement the gear.

This has a technical move in the middle and a pumpy finish.

This is an interesting route that wanders around some trashy rock before an engaging finish.

Be careful clipping the bolt off the ankle breaker ledge as you enter the business.

This is a well-protected line for new climbers or wives recovering from childbirth! It has easy climbing to the halfway point then a bit of a crux which eases off the further up you go until you finish on jugs. Stay left of the bolts for the most part.

This is a nice route for beginner trad climbers or for kids. There is a little bit of a crux about 2/3 height, and there are plenty of rests.

This route is also a fun little mixed line in the winter, with the same name (M4).

Right 10 is kind of technical off the ground and pumpy at the top with some bouldery terrain in between. You probably want to start a little right of the first bolt unless you stick clip it.

This is protected with 5 bolts to anchors with chains.

The beginning moves are easy and lead to a shallow overhang, which may intimidate beginners. From there, the holds are less obvious.

Your belayer should wear a helmet. We broke off a pretty large hold (head-sized).

Start off with a short scramble up to a ledge with a no-hands rest. Climb a technical ramp, and then get a quick shake before tackling the powerful overhanging face (crux). I went left, probably making it slightly easier.

Be careful, a few loose hand/footholds from time to time. Until this thing cleans up a bit more, I could see the grade changing quite a bit.

This is the line of bolts on the arete crowded in between the

Buttress Climb

and

Z Elephant Boy

. The route seems contrived and way too close to the

Buttress Climb

which overlaps for the first few bolts. It is either a contrived variation or a contrived attempt to establish a hard route right on the arete even as the easier holds just left make you trend that way. Bolt 1 is in an awkward position, and a stickclip is recommended. I'm not sure which anchors -

Buttress Climb

or

Z Elephant Boy

were intended as the finish. Both are runout, and both incur rope drag for belaying the second. Speaking of the second, this line puts your second in a crappy situation if they fall.

This route is around the corner from

When The Wives Are Away...

. This is a fun arete. It is protected by 4 bolts to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Black Cliff