This is an exciting arête climb, with fun moves on great rock.  It's scary, but you wouldn't get hurt if you fell at the crux.

To Air Is Human

Granny Goose

Middle Hand of Darkness

Mongoose

Duck, Duck, Goose

Mandarina

Bryant Gumbel

Pump Up the Volume

Jon Crowley

Whistling Sphincter

Mother Goose

Stake Your Claim

Gander Slander

Uncle Fester's Poodle Fart

The Uhh Cult

Uncle Fester

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102)

Jane Pauley

Right Route

Left Route

Grandpa Gander

The crux lies in the first 10' of climbing with fingerlocks and poor feet.  Eases to 5.8 after that.  Small TCU's will protect down low (purple/blue TCU).  Walk off to the west.

This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.

This route is most likely some sort of old mixed aid line or TR.  There are hammer marks under the roof from pin whacking and I think I remember a pin or two protecting the low crux.  It climbs pretty well with thought provoking moves until the above the roof crux slaps you in the face.  Rock down low is not that great, but gets better as you go.

Follow the splitter on the right facing side of the crag when facing the other routes.  Cut left, sling the chicken head, and then follow the ramp up and to the right.  Top out up the offwidth flake or the face.

Scramble up and right of the start of Granny Goose and Mother Goose to the base of a squeeze chimney. This chimney is just right of the Mother Goose arête.

Squirm up the chimney and short hand crack to the terrace.

Starting at a flake climb the steep face with a small hueco near the top.

This route breaks off to the right of "Jane Pauly" approximately 12-15' up the crack; it's an obvious line to the top. A relatively easy walk off is necessary (or leave your pro for me to get later).

This route starts off of a boulder between Bryant Gumbel and Grandpa Gander and features very thin friction moves with very little in the way of holds. Put on your good shoes for this one! As with all routes on this formation, relatively easy walkoff towards entrance road to Lost Horse.

The short crack immediately left of Alistair Crowley.

Obviously been done before, but a less grovely alternative to Alistair to get to the top of the formation.

This is the thin crack on the summit block just right of the top of Uncle Fester.  Pull the brutal thin moves to get established on real holds, then hang on and climb to the summit.

This is a short face climb with no protection.  There is only one 5.6 move.

Short but varied climbing on sharp stone, with a mantle start,  jams/sidepulls up a fingers-to-fists crack (with good face holds), and a funky crux move around a bulge to the final ramp.

Start atop a boulder between Granny Goose and Grandpa Gander.

Climb up the face to a left facing flake, then up to a thin, vertical seam. Face climb up along the seam (crux) to a horizontal crack. Continue up another short seam to the top.

Start in the obvious gully to the left of Uncle Fester (5.3), traverse to the right in the obvious horizontal crack.  Where the crack turns vertical and joins Uncle Fester is the crux.

Interesting climbing.  Not many of the moves are obvious what to do.

Brew 102 follows a crack/corner to the left of "Left Route".

It was also a famous cheap beer brewed in L.A.

Just to the right of the route , Uncle Fester, is a "Y" shaped crack. Jane Pauley is the left side of the Y. Descend off to the left.

This is on the separate, left section of the crag.

Start on the right side, move up and left to the crack. Move left at the roof, then up to where moves can be made right, to the crack. Follow it to the top.

The direct route is 5.11c, top rope.

This is the first route to the left of Granny Goose. Pull onto the face above an overlap and make thin moves up past three bolts. Some pro can be had past the last bolt to ease your mind. Easy descent down the north face (towards the Lost Horse Road).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face