Increasingly difficult thin changing corners climbing which I found more challenging than anything else I did at PB including several pitches which were rated harder.

Start with a couple of hard moves off the deck, then some easier terrain then an interesting move using a flake to get to a horn that alone would justify the 10d rating.  The next 15' involve decreasingly bomber fingerlocks and toecams in the corner and good small nuts if you can hang around to place them.  Anchors shortly follow.

High Expectations

Black Sheep

Conquistadors of the Useless

Tommy Boy

Housekeeping

Do I Make You Horny?

Up To No Use

Boi-oi-oi-ing!

St. Stephen

Beverly Hills Ninja

Ode to Brian

Good Medicine

Farenheit 7/16

Faith + 1

Priapism

Information paraphrased from Marty Lewis’ Mammoth Area Rock Climbs because it’s in the book but wasn’t listed on MP.

A pitch 2 variation to Boi-oi-oi-ing

Start from p1 anchor up multiple parallel cracks splitting off towards the arête a little ways up into a 3.5” crack.

Two 30m raps get you back to the deck

The fifth left facing corner from the left is a bit cleaner the Beverly Hills Ninja.  Starts as a wide crack with a finger crack inside it making the OW not a problem.  Crux comes higher as the crack becomes a bit too big for good finger jams at an overlap about half way.  Finish with some hand jams to the communal anchor

Spice, glory, and adventure. Harness the spirit of a conquistador and be heartily rewarded.

3 pitches. Consult topo.

The sixth left facing corner from the left climbs up a incredibly clean thin hands corner.  Crux is mid-height where the crack thins down and one must make a couple thin lieback moves to get to good jams again.

Would be four stars if it was a full pitch.

A strenuous 5.9 OW leads to the seventh left facing corner from the left.  Crux comes after the OW where the corner begins and one must commit to thin lieback moves.

Still a bit loose.  Last time I was up there I cleaned off a bunch of blocks, but there may still be some left.

The crack system that goes through the roof to the right of conquistadors of the useless.

P1: 5.8? Straight line it from the ground to the second set of anchors on conquistadors.  Chossy but easy crack climbing to a couple bolts before the anchor. 100ft

P2: 5.10b/c Straight up the chossy crack above with interesting climbing and some wide crack sections to a perch on the right below the large roof.  Gear anchor. 60ft

P3: 5.10d blast out the roof with hand sized gear then tackle a quality face and thin crack section to a ledge with gear anchor.  50ft

P4: 5.11- up through a double thin crack section and some shallow corner climbing to a permanent sling anchor. 70ft

Descent:. Rap from sling anchor to the top anchors of conquistadors.  Rap that route.  (Look at conquistadors as you rap down... Looks good!)

P1 (5.10a):  Climbs up the right side of a giant wedged block about 25 feet off the ground.  Continue up double cracks to the highest ledge before the upper headwall.  Bolted anchor at 85 feet.

P2 (5.10a):  Start out slightly up and left of the anchor and get ready for 165 feet of hand jamming!  Generally there are two or three cracks to choose from.  When in doubt, stay to the left.  Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.9):  Not recommended due to loose rock and friable holds.  If you do climb this, we left some fixed junk to rap from, beware.

The third left facing corner from the left passes an undercling flake.  Crux is pulling up onto the flake.  Finish on Beverly Hills Ninja handcrack to communal anchor.

The fourth left facing corner from the left climbs up to a good stance, then some thin crack climbing with tricky pro leads to the traverse ledge.  Finish up a nice hand crack to the communal anchor.  The rock quality on this one isn't spectacular, but may clean up eventually.

We toproped this and climbed with a wire brush before ever leading it.  Not a bad idea if this is near your limit.

Scramble up some easy ledges and set up a belay.  Look up at the splitter crack through nice headwall and go climb.  Crux is the finger crack getting to the anchor, but a few other 5.10 moves are encountered along the way.  Good steep fun!

I never liked how this route ended at the tree above with a double rope rap needed, so it was never reported.  The route now sports a set of shiny new mussy hooks at the top of the good climbing.

This is essentially a new route, some rubble on the ledges and occasional dirty section will be encountered until it gets a few more ascents.

Pitch 1: 10b, 100' **

Start in the corner to the left of Boi-oi-oi-ing! After 40 or so feet, step left to a handcrack. Anchor on good stance above.

Shares 1st pitch with Priapism

Pitch 2: 10b, 120' ***

Climb to the right of a vegetated crack to a roof. Go left around the roof to access great cracks (mostly hand sized). Continue past the Priapism anchor and ascend to the top of the tower.

(Alternatively, it is easy to step right to the anchor of Priapism and access a cool 11a toprope)

Pitch 3: 5.8, 60' *

Another pitch if so desired. More cracks up and right, mostly hands.

Rappel Priapism or Boi-oi-oing to descend

This used to be the easiest route at the crag until I established "Faith +1".  Climbs up lightning bolt cracks in a corner on the next buttress up valley from Tommy Boy.  It is visible in the Orange Pillar photo of Marty's 3rd Edition "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs".

The second left-facing corner from the left leads to a traverse ledge.  Crux is the steeper part near a small pine tree (fists).  Finish up Beverly Hills Ninja hand crack to communal anchor.

Officially the easiest route at Patricia Bowl.  Route "A" in the Beta Photo is a variation start which is a little easier, but you still have to do the 5.7 moves to finish the climb.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 100' **

Start in the corner to the left of Boi-oi-oi-ing! After 40 or so feet, step left to a handcrack. Anchor on good stance above.

Pitch 2: 5.11a, 90' ****

Fist to tips crack on an aesthetic arete to the top of a pillar. High quality pitch.

Can be done in one mega pitch with appropriate gear management and extension.

Rappel route to descend

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Orange Pillar