This route, and its neighbors to the climber's left, are rather steep. The characteristics of rock differs from other areas in the Palace, as it is smoother and featured primarily by crack systems.

The route starts just left of

Gossip Column

, following the arete for 10 feet or so before moving out left. Follow the crack systems up from there.

Dear Slabby

Blood Legacy

Sign the Papers

For the Kids

Sporting Green

Obituary

Sunday Times (aka Sunday Paper)

Gossip Column

The Ogre

Battle Axe

Fun consistent route with just about everything you can ask for: jams, crimps, pinches, laybacks, underclings. Rest where you can on this thing. Crack skills, especially foot jams and layback, help to tame this steep route. The whole route is the crux, but the hardest move comes near the top when moving on laybacks to an interesting pinch/undercling.

Belay spot is fairly lame, the scramble to the base is a little annoying. The fixed chain for the belayer help.

Clipping the first bolt is easy but missing it could spell disaster.

Don't let the approach pillar or first 10 feet fool you, this is great rock all the way to the top. Remarkable underclings and large moves bring you from big hold to big hold. This is the longest pitch at The Palace, it has it all...even an easy crack to top out.

This route has big holds and fun climbing. It is well-protected for a new leader. It is soon to exceed

Churchill Rejects

for the most popular moderate....

Climb jugs through a roof to a ledge. This is large crystal climbing to the anchors. It is similar climbing to its neighbor to the right.

Per

JF M

: this route begins on the lower of the two belay-tiers that rise out of the right-hand side of the creek bed as it turns sharply left (coming from down-stream). It is the first "easily accessible" bolt-line after the fin that holds

Sunday Times

.

Climb up intermittent cracks on a gently overhanging face using liebacks and finger locks. A crux comes at the fourth bolt, then the climbing eases but still stays with you to the end. There are a few ways to unlock the crux sequence. It has very nice movement but loses a star due to the belay.

Odd flakes and aretes take you to featured slab on a lone column. The crux is a bulge on the slab.

Fairly easy route for the grade until you have to clip the chins, for sure the crux. It seems like the anchors could have been placed in a better location.

The two ledges provide great rests, naps, picnics, etc. It's a little more like climbing two long V2 boulder problems.

This one is shorter, thinner and, I think, quite a bit harder.

Get the crux over early on this long, varied pitch, and enjoy the rest.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Palace Pages