I imagine there will be a new topo added with more information on the route in the near future. This felt like 10a/b to me.

There are two cruxes at the obvious bulges. Get a good rest before the first bulge, keep an eye out for a good knob and fire through it. The second bulge is much easier.

Unknown 5.10a

Two Stroke Bugaboo

Unknown 5.10c

Starlight Express

Grind and Spark

Trans-continental Glide

Steel Wheels

Union Specific

Diesel Seranade

Cobble and pockets. Climb up and over a bulge, then a second small bulge, then it turns into very small cobble and one and two finger pockets to the top. Nasty, sharp looking boulders at the base of this route that would really suck if you fell on them, so don't fall.

Climb up to a large hueco to clip the first bolt, pull the bulge after that, then up to a huge pocket with an interesting pinch/undercling to get over the next bulge. Then meander right and up to the chains. My favorite route on this wall.

I imagine there will be a new topo added with more information on the route in the near future. This felt like 10c/d to me.

The crux for me was a tricky balance move just above the hueco. The blank spot just under the chains was exciting.

Nice easy cruise to the chains. A great warm-up, or climb for kids and new leaders. Climb cobble and hidden pockets.

Longest route on the wall. Start on the right side of a "bridge" between 2 huecos. Climb up to the sandstone ribbon which makes a bulge, which is the crux. Not super hard, but definitely need to read it right to get passed it. Involves a good undercling, an iffy crimp, and some awesome hidden jugs. After that, cruise up and right to a huge hueco/ledge which is very dirty, watch you don't kick too much down on your belayer. Kind of some funky moves getting off the ledge and up to the next bolt, then a few easy moves to the chains. Had a lot of fun on this one.

Climb cobble and pockets to the chains, another nice and easy cruise, but more vertical than Starlight Express to the left. Consistent 5.8 moves all the way up.

Climb up and over a large wash out indentation in the cobble to HUGE pockets. Trend right and try to stay off the climb to the left. Overall really quick, interesting route.

A lot of bolts on this one, can clip the first one before leaving the ground. Climb up cobble to a sandstone ribbon that creates a small bulge, crux of this one for me. From there it was a lot of high stepping and side mantles on bigger cobble to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Roadside Crag