Every bit as good as its more esteemed neighbor to the left, Buffalo Soldier is an excellent moderate pocket-pulling masterpiece. This long & sustained line is the perfect warmup route, and a worthy objective in its own right.

Begin up steeper rock just below the thin detached flake. A few thin moves work up to the flake, where the holds increase in size. The angle kicks back a bit and excellent pockets begin to appear just where you need them as you cruise up the excellent slab. This line finishes at an anchor atop the slab, but there is a bolted extension (Charlie Drew That Sinnin' Bull, 5.12c)that tackles the looming roof.

Buffalo Soldier

Honed on the Range

Cowboy Poetry

Even Cowgirls Get the Blues

How The West Was Won

Cowboys Don't Shoot Straight

The Devil Wears Latex

Ella's Pony Ride

Princess and the Playmate

Testosterone Alfresco

Drove Hard and Put Up Quick

Take Your Hat Off

Slapping Leather

Burnin' Daylight

Ambush in the Night

Sleeping Thunder

Cowboy Gibberish

Alaskan Tanning Booth

SideWinder

Super fun with huge juggy pockets on vertical to slightly overhanging stone.   The stone is completely bulletproof white limestone, and the setting is as pretty as you could hope for.

Lots of Sun!  Bring the sunscreen.

Pretty easy for the grade.  There is some trickiness down near the bottom but after that it is one jug after the other.   A genuinely classic 10- sport outing.

Hard right off the ground, with the crux and a great move to the 2nd bolt. Don't mess up the clip. A bit more difficulty at the 4th? bolt and it backs off to the top.

Beautiful line that can be done to the first anchor at 11b or all the way to the top at 12b.

Overhangs slightly and climbs stellar pockets.

The most distinguising feature is an obvious 6 foot long edge that angles from low left to upper right towards the middle of the route.  The edge is all chalked up and from below you fully expect a jug when you get there.   However, the edge is actually some sloper action!  Fun!

Fun pocket-pulling on vertical face to start, followed by a series of bulges.  Different style moves required to pull through each of three bulges, followed by the 11 crux just before the chains.

Start just left of the shallow corner (sapling pine) and a steep wall. A couple easy moves off the ground lead to more difficult technical moves on edges, side-pulls under-clings and pockets. The route may seem easier if you are tall. The route is well protected and would make a great choice for anyone wishing to tick a 1st lead in its grade.

PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE UNTIL AFTER July 31st, 2020: Raptors are nesting in the area and Disturbance could result in abandonment of their nest resulting in egg or chick loss and increase the chance of predation. This is not only a climber safety issue but an important measure to protect the nesting birds. Thanks for your cooperation!”

Bolted, chopped, re-bolted!  Starts with technical slab on speckled black rock, moving up an intermittent seam feature. Better pockets up high.  From the indentation at the horizontal seam, prepare for the bulge above. Easier than it looks!  The vertical crack right of the two black streaks makes for a sharp jam, but plenty of holds to avoid this.  Single set of anchors above the bulge (formerly below).

Another high quality Wild Iris 5.10, Latex offers great pocket pulling in a beautiful setting.  The crux comes right away, with some long moves from good 2-finger pockets.  Above a few long reaches between jugs leads to a sea of nice pockets on a nearly-vertical wall.

Starts just left of small pine and blunt arête, ("Burnin' Daylight")Fun moves on easy terrain! Loads of pockets and features on a low angled slab make this a perfect route to learn to lead on.

A nice line.  While not as good as "Take your hat off...", it is probably a tad harder.  Also considerably more sharp.

Starts off with a cruxy thin section that was really tough for a 5'2" climber (my wife).   Then it becomes more reasonable for the vertically challenged, but stays pretty continuous.

One other oddity - there is no Cowboy theme detectable in the name.

Testosterone Alfresco follows a steep prow with fun moves on big holds.  It shares the same start as Sleeping Thunder but veers left after about 20'.  A great warm-up for some of the harder steeper routes on the wall.

Start just right of a pine tree, Use crack and pockets to pull over bulge to some tricky moves on a clean face.

Excellent line with a burly distinct crux.

Start out in the seam and then move right on a slab.  The climbing up to the 4th bolt is probably easy 5.10.

Once you are done with this part, this leaves you under an overhanging bulge with a no-hands rest.

Then you do a 4 or 5 move sequence through a cruxy small pocket to a deep pocket.   From there it is a cakewalk to the anchors.

Not a one-move-wonder, but the sequence through the crux (8 feet) is definitely the main attraction - the rest of the route is fairly easy

Start between 2 pine trees. Climb fun moves up a blunt arête.

PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE OR IT"S EXTENSION UNTIL AFTER July 31st, 2020: Raptors are nesting in the area and Disturbance could result in abandonment of their nest resulting in egg or chick loss and increase the chance of predation. This is not only a climber safety issue but an important measure to protect the nesting birds. Thanks for your cooperation!”

Thin tedious climbing right off the ground on poor holds marks the first 10 feet of this route and the crux. The remainder of the climbing is straight forward all the way to the anchor.

Another bouldery line at The Iris?  Who would have thunk it?  Climbs fun and mellowly up the face with a few intersting moves as the wall starts to kick back around the eighth bolt.  Then the thunder wakes.  Felt hard for the grade, but it is a good boulder problem and might be slightly height dependent.

This route used to be an easier variation to Cowboy Poetry that bailed left to avoid the high roof.  Unfortunately some mentally ill person ( probably the notorious crag menace Alf) chopped the bolts.  Fortunately there is a lowering station just below the roof, so its still possible to climb the 5.11 section of Cowboy Poetry and skip the roof.

Several hundred feet down and right of the preceding routes, and across a tree gully to a lower cliff band.   This route follows the arete at the left end of the cliff band.

Start off with a couple easy slab moves and climb the blunt arête to the pocketed face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in G. Cowboy Poetry