go straight up the center as with Problem 2 then lie back on left arete of boulder and find the knob right foot. Continue directly up the rounded center for a scary topout with basically no hands or feet. not sure of first ascent but the top is very mossy so it is possible.

Sketch Step

Lobotomy

Problem 2

Tiptoe Dancer

Problem 1

This is the easy mantle on the right side of the lobotomy boulder. Start on the good holds in the middle of the face and make a long move to the ledge between the two lobes. Use a highstep to finish it off.

The namesake problem for this boulder, this is a really unique and fun problem. Start as far back on the right side of the boulder as you can, using a couple handjams underneath the cap. Work your way to the left using hand and fist jams until you come to a spot where the crack pinches down for a few feet. At this point you transition to using the underside of the cap as an undercling and continue smearing. Finish up the mantle between the lobes or continue to the crack for the 'Full Frontal' variation (V1).

go directly up the center of left boulder. use hands to compress on both sides of top. get feet on slanted crack and tiptoe until your high enough to topout straight over the rounded face. scary top out because you can't see your feet/fall.

This route climbs the crack on the left side of the rock. Start underneath the overhanging crack with both your hands in the crack and your feet smeared on the corner wall in front of you. Pull up over the overlap and continue jamming until you're on top of the rock.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lobotomy Boulder