This route is an often overlooked Sugarloaf classic splitter. It's difficult to see from the approach trail but once you see it, it's one of those routes you just have to climb. Thin fingers and hands start the route and quickly turn into perfect hands. As you near the top the crack continues to widen into rattley fists and keeps it on you right to the top.

Diagonal Left

Goony Dunes

Senro No Ejjin

Turning Point

Dauntless

Diagonal Right

Wish it Was a Palm Tree

Erin Arete

Urchins Ate the Coral

Flight Deck

Self Abuse

Start by traversing left through a thin tricky section, pass some thin flakes and work you way up the blunt arête to the top.

Start the route in the same spot as Turning Point, next to the worthless head height bolt that protects nothing except ,maybe a tumble down the hill. After clipping the second bolt, traverse right, following the bolt line, then follow the subtle but obvious dike to the top.

The furthest route to the left. Start the same spot as every other route on the wall and traverse to the farthest route left. Thin and steep.

There are three crux areas on this slab/face climb. The first is the initial move before the first bolt. From this crimpy mantle you traverse right and up to the bolt. The second is between bolts two and three, and the third consists of fairly sustained climbing between the last four bolts of the climb. Good smearing, crimping, and maybe a hand-foot match or two will see you through. Much like any slab climb, it looks a lot easier from the ground.

Starts at the same spot as Urchins but follows the line of bolts to it's left.

Undercling a right arching crack and step up into a short flareing pod. Make a reachy move to a perfect hand jam where the pod narrows on top and pull over to more hand jams and easier climbing to the top.

Start by chimney-ing up by using the tree for your back and feet on the rock. Place a sling in the tree then pull onto the rock. When the bolt line splits, follow the left line.

The right line is It Seams to Go to Midway (10d/11a). However, from Wish it Was a Palm Tree the line takes 2 quickdraws and goes at 5.9. It is sporty/runout on 5.7 after the last bolt. Bolt anchor on top.

This route begins with a slabby start which gets steeper, but more featured after about the second bolt. The route is well protected with bolts.

This route begins up a small rail formed by a flake past several bolts. Some very thin technical but well protected moves lead you to a lower angle, easier but sparsely protected runnout face that is no harder than 5.7R.

Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.

If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more dialed than mine. Caution is required, however, for there is some hollow rock as well as untrustworthy flakes inside the crack, but solid protection can be found. And remember to say hi to the alligator lizard as you pass, it is mellow and doesn't seem bitey.

Description

Location

Routes in Midway Rock