This route was originally done as a top rope route with an unknown first ascent, as stated in the Cronin guidebook. We decided to bolt it and make it a safe, fun, leadable route. 

 Scramble up the juggy ramp that brings you to a large ledge and first bolt. Start up a sequential face past a few bolts to a nice rest in the large pocket band. Fight the pump and continue pulling on pockets and large holds to a glue-in anchor.  

Lost Direction

Head Solution

Adaptation

Garden Party

Wango Tango

Blockhead

France By Chance

Why Be Normal

Russell’s Big Crack

Killer Wasp From Hell

Two Bits

Seams to Go

One Finger Solution

Paperboy Centerfold

Flatland Fever

Killer Wasp From Hell climbs the bulging face just right of Garden Party.  The route gets harder and harder as you go up, with the crux moves being about 5 feet above the obvious blank section.  Don't get tunnel vision - the best sequence weaves back and forth using semi-hidden pockets. 

  Excellent and technical pocket pulling on slightly over vertical limestone.

Climb the first three bolts of Blockhead. From here climb up and slightly right to a jug on the arete. You are now on One Finger Solution. Continue up that route into the one finger namesake of the route avoiding the jug crack to your left at all times. Finish as for that route.

This route climbs the bolted face just to the left of "France by Chance", and this is a good one.  The route involves very specific moves in the first 15-18 feet, and the only rest is on an awkward ledge just to the right of the third bolt.  The climbing eases up after the fourth bolt.  Anchors were placed 10-12 feet below the rim so jackass vandels can't get to 'em.  Mark thinks this one climbs at 5.11a on toprope and 5.11b on lead.  So for those of you who want something new and challenging at Falling Rock, this is the one to get on.

This route is the obvious crack in the middle of the face with a tree growing at the top.  Climb the dihedral using pockets and stemming for 15' to a large ledge.  Lieback up the crack system until the face becomes peppered with pockets and edges.   

  This is a very fun climb, but only gets two stars because there are no three star routes at Falling Rock.  This is a sentimental favorite of mine because it was my first climb ever.

Climb the brown bolts in between Flatland Fever and One Finger Solution. Avoid climbing on either of these routes. Save some juice because the crux is up top.

Blockhead is on the face just to the right of Paperboy Centerfold (obvious dihedral).  Follow bolt line up through face holds and incipient cracks, then pull over a small roof (crux).  Follow face holds to a two bolt anchor at the top.  This is one of the better face climbing routes at Falling Rock.

This is the bolted face in between "Adaptation" and the "Seams to Go" crack.  It requires a little more thought than strength as the moves aren't that obvious, but they're there.  There are no anchors at the top, but there's plenty of little cracks on the rim to place nuts or hexes for a trad gear toprope anchor, or you can use the anchors on "Seams to Go" and place a directional quickdraw on the last "France" bolt.

Climb the finger crack the widens to hands at the top.  This route splits the small face at the east end of the main wall and to the right of Russell's Big Crack.  The anchors are to the left of this route so a BD#1 at the top of the crack is handy as a directional to set-up a top rope.

Fun varied climbing on the longest route at Falling Rock. The guidebook rates this at 5.9 but I have a hard time believing it even makes the 5.8 grade as I suggested. The initial moves to the 1st bolt and pulling over the bulge to get above it are the hardest. After that it's a cruiser on good holds. Very good for a first lead at FR as long as the start doesn't scare you away.

Fun route to take beginners on. Large jugs and a crack you can practice hand jamming on. Solid bolts on top.

A really fun bolted 5.9 to the left of Garden Party.  The first bolt, though not too difficult to get to, really should be stick-clipped just to be safe.  The rest of the climb, in my opinion, offers the use of a little bit of everything in technique...  a lay-back here and there and even a nice little gastone move near the last bolt...  it's a super-cool warm-up before you hit the harder routes out there.

I've heard this route called "Seams to Be" as well.  It is a small crack running up the face to the left the "Unnamed" 5.9 route.  There are some anchors w/chains at the top, and I've heard most people say it's best to toprope this one as gear placements can be a little sketchy.

This is the hardest route on the North Canyon Wall.  It follows the bolted face to the right of "Blockhead".  The first bolt is at the very bottom, about chest-height from the ground, and is there just as much for the belayer as the climber to prevent both from tumbling down to the bottom of the canyon in the event of a fall before clipping the next-higher bolt.  The first part involves using probably one of the most uncomfortable finger-pockets i've ever encountered, and once past that it really doesn't let up.  The climb also includes a cool middle-finger/thumb pinch hold into a pair of small pockets a little more than 1/2 way up, smack in the middle of the face.  It's a fun climb, but liable to give you some headachs...

Paperboy Centerfold is the obvious dihedral about 20' right of Garden Party.  A face climbing start leads to sustained fingerlocks and liebacking.  There are bolts on top for toproping this climb.  An excellent route for getting a pump - especially if running laps.

This is a great route, slightly past vertical, so a real arm pumper.

Hold the higher concentration of routes in the area. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall