Long and well bolted route hidden next to Wind Dance.  Some interesting moves early (traverse in from wind dance) and late (get's a little steeper up to the chains), but may feel easier once some of the lichen and crumbly rock is cleaned with traffic.  Worth doing if you're in the area.   We used the first bolt from wind dance, but that might not be necessary.

Hope someone will add the intended name and first ascentionist!

Route has now been cleaned up and destined to be another classic and popular route from Duane.

DaBoyz

East Crack

Fred Rassmussen

Spider Gawd

No Cash Refunds

Green Crack

Lost Pioneers

Wind Dance

Two Bits

The Egyptian (Face)

Catwalk

A new bolted route just right of Manky Skum and on the same section of rock.  A little grainy, but will clean up with repeats.  This will become very popular as a safe intro to lead climbing.  Like other Kevin Pogue routes, they all seem to attract crowds.

This crack line was named based on the very old "Fred Rasmussen" scrawled with axle grease on the rock at the base of the climb.  A rather short but enjoyable hand crack leads to a large ledge.  Probably the most popular climb on the wall.

An old and very rarely climbed route just right of Fred Rasmussen.  Separate start up to an overhang, move right and up a prominent finger crack (crux) that is visible from the road.  It was called Bad Manners in the older versions of the Bingham guides.

A fun, but short route up a slab to a thinning finger crack. Good moves, low commitment, and good protection.

Start in the small clearing at the base. Begin dead-center, with a short series of moves up a clean, blank slab. Catch a left facing flake and head to the crack proper. Pull a bulge and get a rest before the final left-leaning finger crack. Stop on a big ledge at a sling anchor.

Early morning sun / afternoon shade.

A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner.  This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.

This route needs some cleaning. I found it to be dirty and crumbly; as such it is not so hot.  From the chain belay on

Fred Rasmussen

, climb a few more meters of crack, pass a good horizontal to reach a bolt, pass a crux, clip another bolt, then head left to and around a corner onto big puzzle-pieces on a low angle face.  Continue to a set of chain anchors.

Begin at the base of a slab apron, just right of Catwalk and "Descent Route". Climb the chimney left of the apron, with flakes in it, until able to exit right onto the slab at a small dike. Then set sail up left on the 5.8 face, wandering for the easiest route and best protection. Stay left at the top to a nice belay which takes hand and finger sized pieces. Head north-ish to rappel from the chains above the second pitch of Fred Rasmussen.

My favorite route on the wall.  It is located near the south end of the wall and can be identified by a large right-slanting undercling flake about 2/3 of the way up the climb.  There are not many protection opportunities for the first 60 feet or so.  I used a small cam in a small vertical crack near the bottom to protect some slab moves before the easy face with large buckets.  This bucketed face leads to horizontal cracks the fun undercling and a runout easy Finish on huge holds.

Descend: The easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of

Aspen Leaf

. Rappel from there into the

Bloody Fingers Corridor

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East