While I usually don’t write up lines I haven’t tried, I’ve looked at this a number of times and have sufficient knowledge of the beta. Also, it’s a worthwhile entry as I can help to sort out the several classic lines on this boulder.

Poked by a Mermaid (the same as

Carnage

, I believe) was quickly put up by Daniel at V13, because the crew was, at the time, eluded by Ice Knife and figured they’d fill in the gaps while they were up there. While

Carnage

quickly got many repeats and solidified as a popular alpine V13, Mermaid remained rarely repeated for almost a decade. Word-class crimper Sam Weir finally got the job done and remarked that the line could be one of his hardest, comparing it with the likes of

Jade

. Because of this, the problem has mostly just been a sandbagged mystery.

Anyways, Mermaid starts sitting, the same as Ice Knife Sit, on opposing sidepulls. Pull on, and get a right kneebar to reach into the heinous undercling as for

Ice Knife

. Where that problem follows the beautiful prow, Mermaid busts straight up and a little right through the tallest, blankest part of the face. Tiny crimps and huge lockoffs are the name of the game on this rig, and it’s not over until you reach the lip.

Poked by a Mermaid

Rainbow in the Dark

Carnage

The Ice Knife

This rig is stunning and extremely difficult. Daniel Woods did a sit start in the V15-16 range. There are many videos for beta:

Sam Weir:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SN2xMAu4xk

.

If anyone has more information on this climb, please edit it in. I have added it simply because it is there. I haven't climbed it and do not know too much about it.

This starts on two small crimps and moves up and slightly right through small holds and slopers. It is a challenging climb that isn't over until you're grabbing the lip!

Video beta:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHfvLEopAHk

.

This is a straight up crimp line to the right of

The Ice Knife

and the left of

Rainbow in the Dark

. As with

The Ice Knife

, I do not know as much about this climb as the others. So if anyone does, please edit some more info in!

Video beta:

https://vimeo.com/348150425

..

Per

Chris Deuto

: Carnage begins a few feet left of

Rainbow in the Dark

sitting on a blocky, right hand sloper/pinch/thingy and your left hand on an undercling a few feet over left. The first move is to a rad, left hand, sidepull sloper. From here, a kneebar leads to very consistent crimping on bad but rad holds. Whatever beta you choose, the finale comes with a nice pop to a sharp finger bucket. This is an ultra classic crimp line. It is intro level 13 for the style, I believe, but it certainly felt pretty solid for 13.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ice Knife Boulder