A fine route in a wild setting, with great exposure and a couple of interesting pitches, ending at a summit.  Described by Ortenburger and Jackson (1996).  Also on

summitpost.com

, and also mentioned in a recent issue of Climbing (September 2009, #278).

P1: 5.9. Start up a stemming corner.  This leads to an orange face crossed by some cracks.  We went up the leftmost splitter, which turned out to be about 20 feet of nothing but purple camalots (so, if that's your size, go for it).  There may be other options in the 'geometric crack patterns' farther to the right.  O&J mention a chimney to the right (east) but we didn't see that.

P2: Blocky ridge traverse to base of face.

P3: Climb fun quartz crystals on face.

P4: Starts up unprotected face, belay in a blocky notch.

P5: Class 4 blocks.  Don't push this pitch too high, so the leader of the next pitch can choose to go either left or right.

P6: In the back of the massive left facing corner just left of a sharp prow is a 5.8/9 chimney, which is quite good.  Apparently, on the right side of the prow is 5.6 face instead.

P7-P8: Easy blocky climbing to the summit ridge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Taminah Arete