Find Space Warp and then walk back towards the Big Roof. This is the second of several bolted lines that are more or less forgettable before you hit Needles and Pins, a stellar 10a. 'Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This' suffers from being surrounded by poison ivy and choss. It's actually a pretty good line, and with more traffic could be better. So give it a rip if you're out for a warm up or if a 10 lead is about your style.*RCM&W #121, p. 138

Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This

A Deal with the Devil

In the Pink

Sierra Madre

Multiple Stab Wounds

Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood

Needles and Pins

Tummy Kittens in Space

Tub Toys

Sierra

Dumpster Does Duffels

Climb Or Die

Arachnid Tendencies

Toll Free

Dances with Pete

Fish Furniture

Space Warp

Weenies and Nerds

Talking with God

The start has two variations: the first is directly up the slopey ramp past the first bolt (5.10a), and the second is an easy scramble up the ramp (5.7). Fun route with a hidden undercling by the 3rd bolt which makes it significantly easier. Still new enough that it is shedding a bit of rock and debris - caution to both the leader and belayer.

The beginning of this route shares the dihedral and bolts with Talking with God. Climb up the dihedral to just under the roof. From here do a delicate traverse protected with a rusty, unreliable bolt (use long draws under the roof!). Pull the lip of the roof on the left, clip another bolt and climb to the shuts (some loose rock).  

  This isn't actually a bad route, the moves are interesting and the traverse is fun. However, given the combination of rusty bolts and rotten rock above the roof, until the bolts get replaced, climbing it should be considered very risky. If you fall from above the roof and the bolt rips, you could easily deck.

From the Big Roof, walk back left along the wall until you hit 3 bolt lines on a big flake. This is the left line. The crux is about 10-12 feet up where there is a strange sequence of shallow holds, several of which are often wet. After the crux it eases up and is blocky to the top. If I remember right, it shares anchors with the next route to the right, Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood. It's tricky and I think harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.

A steep direct start to Talking with God. Follow the face and arete (same as Sierra) up to the Talking with God roof. Pull it, and finish on Talking with God.

This is a good route.  From the Big Roof, walk back left and this route is the bolted line right after (to the left of) Needles and Pins.  It's a good route, but there is an eye-opener move that is the crux at the second bolt.  Don't blow it or you could meet your belayer at 9.8 m/s^2.  Despite that, this is probably the best route in between 'Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood' and 'Needles and Pins'.   

RCM&W #124, p. 140

This route should get more traffic. It's pretty fun. From the Big Roof, walk back left along the face, avoiding the poison ivy. This is the middle of 3 lines on a big flake. Stay on the flake for full value and fun. Try for the onsight!

Probably one of my favorite 10s at Barn Bluff.  Needles and Pins is sustained 10a climbing for the majority of the climb.  Start below a small overhang.  Move right past the overhang, clipping two bolts along the way.  Climb a somewhat slabby and run out (by Red Wing standards) section to the next bolt.  Continue past this to more vertical rock to the left and gain the anchors. 

 RCM&W #126, p. 140.

Find the trifecta of 'In the Pink', 'Quickdraw Moves to Hollywood', and 'Space Warp' down and left of the Big Roof, and then walk back right towards the Big Roof. This is the third bolted line you come to (the other 2 being 'Tummy Kittens' and 'Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This'?). It's a decent 10 but like all the climbs in this vicinity, doesn't get enough traffic so there might be some loose stuff up higher. I thought 'Multiple Stab Wounds' and 'Why Doesn't...' were better routes but if you're going to the trouble of setting up in this area why not do this one also. It's a good afternoon to set up on 'Why Doesn't...' and move right and try to do as many as possible in a row as they are all moderate and fairly short.*RCM&W #122, p. 138

Hard to believe this face hadn't been bolted yet. Clip the first bolt on Talking with God, then head straight up the face staying near and sometimes using the arete. Finish on Climb or Die.Be mindful of the sharp arete. Bolts are located to prevent falls where the rope would drag the arete, but if you cross the arete near the top before clipping the last bolt on the arete, or if you are top-roping without all the bolts clipped above you, a rope grating (or worse) fall is possible. As always, be analytical about the likely consequences of a fall on your rope

This is the last route on the bluff, past the Big Roof.  It starts on a dirt ramp and the crux is pulling off the ground.  Fortunately, someone added a bolt at head level as you are starting to keep you from an awkward fall as you pull up.  Have your belayer stand out or to the left a ways as there has been some loose rock that can pull off from higher up.  At the top, trend left and clip the anchors from Arachnid Tendencies.  Not stellar, but pretty good.   

RCM&W #133, p. 140

Climb Or Die was COMPLETELY RE-EQUIPPED Sept 2012. Old hardware was extremely rusty and route was very dirty. Route has brand new stainless and all loose rock and debris has been removed.   This rock climb comes highly recommended by this route equipper, despite the route's previous, dirty reputation.   Climb big, moderate moves on big holds to the bulge. Get hyper technical and powerful to pull the crux. Enjoy moderate and exposed climbing to the chains.   Located between "Arachnid Tendencies" and "Talking With God."  

Fun route with a great and intense variety of moves that starts on the face to the left of Dumpster Does Duffles, the very last route on the bluff.  It's a good idea to stick clip the first bolt.  A strenuous lieback with fingertips on the face leads you to a sandy ledge where you can regain your composure.  Then launch into the strange sequence of moves to get you up the bulge and into the corner, launch up and left to the sharp tooth, and pull up onto easier territory.  Overall, a winner.  Have heard several people say that they think that it's a little easier than 11d which the guidebook gives it.  I'll probably stick with 11d.  Let's get a concensus going here. 

RCM&W #132, p. 140

This is a place holder entry in the interest of having a complete route list. If you have climbed this route and have details, please add them to the comments or email me and I will update the description and reassign the route to you. 

  Thanks. 

  -=glenn=- 

RCM&W #125, p. 140

This is a good route.  It starts on the face to the left of the Big Roof and to the right of Needles and Pins.  The crux is pretty low, an awkward pull on bad slopey edges into a great hand slot.  Stand up on the big block and scope it out from back a ways since it's hard to see the jug you are going for from below.  Once you get the jug, the route eases up a lot, just don't blow it up high.   

RCM&W #127, p. 140

This route is 2 bolted lines left of Needles and Pins.  Like it's neighbor, Multiple Stab Wounds, it's okay and could be better with more traffic.  I thought it was sort of fun to climb all these 'grid bolted' lines in rapid succession, one right after the next in sort of marathon fashion.  It's not a super memorable route, but hey, the Bluff has a shortage of 11's.   

RCM&W # 123, p. 138

Head to the Big Roof area, and then backtrack (through the poison ivy) to the left until you find 3 bolted lines on a large flake. There is a faint trail from the main trail heading here also. It's perhaps 100 feet left of the Big Roof proper. This is the right hand line, and the most strenuous. Really, what you see is what you get. It's a burly lieback with bad feet until the obvious shelf, after which it eases up to 5.6 to the anchors. It really should get more traffic, it's a fun bouldery problem. Mind the spiders!

This route starts out under the huge roof, as does Talking with God.  At the roof, head out right, avoiding the crux of the roof and go up, then head back left once you are on easier terrain, finishing on the same anchors as Talking with God.  It's not a great route but it's a good way to get a TR on Talking with God.  It's sandy at the start.  Don't forget to head back left to the anchors.  Going straight up is much harder.  Be very careful on the first couple clips.  Have your belayer clip into the rusty bolt on the huge block on the ground.   

RCM&W #130, p. 140

The Big Roof area is the farthest little wall as you walk east and north along the trail.  Yup, it's a big roof.  This route is pretty sweet, if only for the intimidation factor.  It starts on the sandy wall directly below the obvious big roof.  Don't blow it on the first clip or 2 as there is a back-breaker rock that you started on.  Have your belayer clip into the rusty bolt on the huge block on the ground.  Climb up and trend a little right just under the roof and try to catch a little (uncomfortable) rest.  Clip the next bolt while below it, obviously.  The crux is pulling the roof.  There is a definite sequence that makes it easier but it's still not easy.  If you're shorter than 5'10" good luck.  Maybe try levitation. 

RCM&W #129, p. 140

This area lies at the very end of "The Dark Side" of the bluff.  Although there is some steep climbing here, most of the routes are vertical to slabby.  There's definitely a couple classics worth checking out.  A large block sits on the ground that created the large triangle shaped roof.  There's an old home-made bolt in the block that was placed after it fell.  

Description

Protection

Routes in Large Roof Area