This climb makes a nice way to bypass the Stairmaster and gain Luncheon Ledge - the ledge system where

Triple S

and most of the West Face routes are located.

P1: Traverse right on the ledge, then up a crack and ledge system to a spacious ledge with a few trees and rappel rings over

The Burn

(80ft).

P2: Climb the right facing corner system up and around a cave-like feature and V-slot to another spacious ledge with a tree.  Belay here (80ft).

Ecstasy Junior

Roof Traverse

The Burn (Escape Variation)

Moonshine

Upper Burn (Burn variation)

Gert's Grungy Gulley

The Burn - Variation: Traverse Pitch

The Con Man

The Burn

Mr. No Wrench

Dirty Hairy

Afterburn (Burn Variation)

Sunshine

Upper Burn to Ecstasy Junior (Burn Variation)

Ecstasy Junior - Variation:  Vegetable Variation

From the top of the 1st pitch of Ecstasy Junior, traverse left to a crack system that becomes a large, right facing corner and has plenty of "vegetables" scattered along it.  Climb the crack and the corner to the top.

A #4 or #5 cam will keep the last 15' or so from becoming R, though it is on fairly easy terrain. There's two ways to finish this: either top out the corner and build a belay in some cracks on the slabby rock in front of you (right of the big overhangs) or continue to the very top and use a tree for your anchor. If you choose the first option, you can walk-off to climbers left, through the old Hemlock Grove and then into the Stairmaster

Start: same as Ecstasy Junior.

#1. Claimb up and right of Ecstasy Junior for about 10 ft. to a steep right facing corner. Climb the corner, then step left to an easy vegetated crack.  Follow this crack to a tree that lies next to a large roof. (The continuation of the crack turns into Ecstasy: Vegetable Variation) (70 ft.)

#2. Traverse out right beneath the roof. When the overhang becomes double tiered pull the roof to a right facing corner. Follow the corner to the top (60 ft.)

Climb The Burn to the large horizontal break (optional belay).  Pull up and over the bulge to a stance. Traverse left to a short right-facing corner.  Climb the corner to its top and a good stance.  Traverse left to the  upper part of the EJ crack and finish up this to the large ledge.

Similar to the "Traverse Pitch", you can get to this either by climbing the first half of The Burn or pitch 1 of Ecstasy.  If starting up The Burn, you could do this all in one pitch without too much trouble on rope drag (use long runners as needed).  If climbing up P1 of Ecstasy, it would be wise to do it in two pitches, building a belay at the horizontal break.

Thin holds and sparse gear. The climb starts just right of the vegetated ramp below Ecstasy Jr. and directly below the bolt on Sunshine. Climb straight up towards the bolt, through small edges and side pulls. The route joins Sunshine a little bit below the bolt.  Climb the rest of Sunshine to finish. The guide book rates it 5.11d R/X. The moves are strenuous and the little gear you get can be tricky to place.  Usually done as a top rope, but a fun and spicy lead.

From the belay ledge shared with EJ and The Burn, climb the crack in the face up to the roof.  At the roof, traverse out right and around the corner to a small ledge in a corner.  Climb the corner to the top and the shared belay with EJ.

Start area same is the same as Ecstasy Junior, on the ramp left of Sunshine.

P1: The original start is the long right-facing ramp to the left of Sunshine (basically shared with the original EJ start). Climb to the ledge with a big pine where many folks start EJ these days. (5.1/5.2)

P2: Continue up some blocky sections and into a small alcove. Move up and left on good holds and pull out around the corner to a large rubble covered ledge with a good size tree (this is where Dirty Harry, Wife's A Bitch, and The Con Man start). (5.4)

P3: Move up a short dirt slope and past some Greenbriar and gain the blocky face with a small chimney on the left side. Climb this to a good ledge. From around here you can belay and then walk/scramble off to the north. Instead of belaying there, you can continue up to the east on somewhat lichen-covered ledges to the area beneath the big orange overhangs (aka the old Hemlock Grove) and make a belay there. You can easily walk off to the north from here. (5.3/5.4)

P1: Climb the first half of The Burn to the large horizontal break.  You can also get to this spot by climbing the first pitch of Ecstasy. (length varies depending on if you climb The Burn or Ecstasy).

P2: Traverse left to the vertical crack on Ecstasy Junior and climb this to the big ledge and belay. (40 ft.)

If doing the as a variation to The Burn, you can link both pitches.  Be sure to use a number of long slings or the rope drag from the traverse will be heinous.

From the right side of the ledge, climb the face up to the small overhang. Work up the weakness at a small tree and gain a small stance.  Up to this point you need to have plugged in whatever gear you might've been able to get because there's nothing for awhile.  Climb the steep and sustained slab above, using the two shallow cracks/runnels to the second overhang.  Pull the overhang to a great stance and gear placements.  Climb the flake and final overhang above, using some large, positive sloper holds at the top.

At the top, you'll find a good ledge where EJ Veggie Variation tops out to your right and the big orange overhangs of the old Hemlock Grove are to your left.  You can sort out a decent belay here.  Walk off left and find the top of the Stairmaster.

Serious props to Doyle and Co for doing this one.  The face climbing just doesn't let up until you get to the overhang.

You can rig a TR on this one from the ledge up above.  Hike up the Stairmaster to the Hemlock Grove and access the ledge.  Rig the anchor just a bit left of where EJ Veggie Variation comes up.  Take a grill brush as it probably needs a scrubbing.

The Burn is the first route one comes to after hiking around the corner from the Southern End on one's way up the Stairmaster.  Start on a block with a small tree.

P1: Climb up the face via cracks and through the overhang above to the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge.  Most people stop here but there is a second pitch.

P2: Climb up the face to the right of a corner.

Climb interesting and atypical Seneca face features past 3 bolts and a few pieces of gear to the base of the roof. Clip the bolt at the roof and make a series of hard and bouldery moves to pull the lip. Continue up the face past two more bolts to a bolt anchor.

Climb GGG to a large ledge at the end of the second pitch (alternatively you can climb a crack up a short wall from the about 3/4 of the way up the Stairmaster to this same point).  Step past some greenbriars and climb the obvious right-facing corner to the roof. Move left about 5 ft or so, place some good gear, and pull the roof to a good stance.  Move up on positive holds and locate a large horizontal crack for a placement right about the point of being runout.  Continue up easy terrain to a ledge below and right of the big orange/white overhangs and build a belay.

Walk-off left to the Old Hemlock Grove.  Alternatively, you could continue up the easy slabby face to the top, belay, and then walk off on the trail up there in the middle area between the SW Buttress and the Main West Face areas.

This is actually a pretty decent line that deserves more traffic.  It just happens to be a little out-of-the-way.

From the large belay ledge at the top of The Burn and Ecstasy Junior, located the obvious crack that splits the face.  Climb the crack to the roof, plug some gear and pull the roof.  Continue up the unprotected face above to the belay tree shared with EJ.  The hard stuff is pulling the roof and getting established above.  The climbing above is still in the 5.8/5.9 range and exposed with no gear.

Starts on the face just left of The Burn.  Climb up to a bolt and then continue on the the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge.

From the large ledge shared with EJ and the Burn, climb the crack in the face above up to the roof.  At the roof, move to the left and join with EJ's P2.  Finish up EJ's P2 to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southwest Corner