Originally climbed by Shayne Fields (et al) as a trad "practice" route and to train for aid climbing as well. This tall arête and face is now considered a proud highball line.

First AID

Princess Bride

Redemption Crack

Shawshank Redemption

To the right of Redemption Crack, start on good holds and follow through into some thin slopey edges. Crank into the top section and find the rail and shallow knobs to aid in the mantle.

In the middle of the boulder (to the right of Shawshank) find the obvious vertical crack. Follow the crack and nice holds all the way to the top out. At the top there is a nice fin to aid in the mantle.

8ft right of the corner beside the "cave" find pocket for your left and an undercling for your right to stand start (a sit start goes from the undercling below, but detracts from quality). Climb up through another pocket and a pinch to the horizontal jug seam. Climb direct through sidepulls and the jug lobe feature. Use the diagonal slot to reach a high crimp, and then the iron ribbed top edge for the top out.

This boulder is the one that forms the "cave"  with the Allegory boulder. Allegory has the steep face, and opposite is Shawshank. Shawshank Redemption is an awesome highball problem 8ft right of the cave's corner.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shawshank Boulder