A quintessential Rubidoux slab, made more exciting if approached as a highball boulder problem and without dodging over to the arete too early. The old Hellweg/Warstler guide (that most everyone disliked) claims there are two distinct 5.10 routes on this boulder. The Fry guide probably gives a better description by stating that "many variations are possible." A good slab to play around on and develop that footwork.

Triangle Face

Low Level Girdle

Soft Grit

Isosceles

Problem B

Problem A

Problem D

Side Problem

Triangulation

Problem C

Start at

Problem D

on the left and make a fingery traverse across

Triangle Face

, and then into the wide crack and around the nose of

Isosceles

.  Continue rightwards to a final tricky section to reach the arete on the right of

Triangulation

.

Start with your right hand on a good, but sharp, shallow pocket, left hand high on a crimp.   Pull on step up high and slap for the gritty sloper, match then mantle on up.

This problem climbs the striking middle Arete of the boulders.

Start up the slabby arete, until the ledge at 2/3 height is reached.

From the ledge make very committing moves up the arete (easier if facing right).

The crux is at the top, and its a long way up there with a nasty landing.

Climb the left arete of the slab up and right as it nears the apex of the slab.

Climb up the left of the slab directly with good positive holds.

Climb up and grab the arete and then romp all the way to the top of the slab.

Climb the short mottle colored wall via a right slanting crack.

This is a nice, technical problem that is short enough to boulder safely. Footwork intensive. Called "Sleepathon" in the Hellweg/Warstler guidebook.

Climb the right arete of the slab until 2/3 height when an exciting lieback gains the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Triangle Boulders