This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.Approach by hiking up a ledge/stratum from your car. Up and up and up, until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.The route begins up a short crack. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. Hmmmm. You can avoid this by a runout face bit to the right; much more pleasant. I chose the wide crack, and struggled. The final short face is steep, ledgy and fun. See how far you dare step out onto the penguin's bill...Enjoy.

Note: This tower is located here: 38°51'17.6"N 109°43'49.5"W

The 2 mile trailhead is near Sunshine Wall but this climb is not on the same wall as the others listed. The tower sits amid a complex plateau above the main tier. The trailhead begins to the west of the main wall and slowly ascends a ramp system atop the main wall which opens out onto this plateau.

goo.gl/maps/YrTefMMXjMC2

Tezcatlipoca

Melanoma Shuffle

Mosquito Coast

Tumbleweed Inferno

Neopolitan Corner

Sunset Skydive

Science Friction

Brainiac

Unknown

Walking on Sunshine

Lesson in Braille

Love Hurts

Learning Curve

More slab climbing! Do some easy slabbin' to the first bolt and do a tricky mantel to reach the second. The crux comes just past this with a very thin move with terrible feet to reach some small edges. A taller climber might have a significantly easier time on this section that someone of average height. Beyond the third bolt the climbing eases up, continuing at 5.10 past seven more bolts. Anchors are two bolts currently equipped with a quicklink and a carabiner.

Climb the slab left of science friction, past 9 bolts, with an easy runout to the anchors. Name came from the melanoma knobs you encounter on the route. Less bolts, than the overgraded, over bolted other routes on the sunshine slab. Fun, clean, well protected slabbing..rare for arches.

Farthest Left route (N) on Sunshine wall.   Crux is right at the start after the initial 20 ft section to the leadge.  Crux protects well with small gear or #1 camalot.  Remainder of route has drilled pitons.

Climb starts just left of Melanoma Shuffle on Science Friction Slab. (Left most bolted line) Edge and smear up the left side on bumps, melanoma knobs, and waves then cruise up the easy slab finish to the two bolt anchor with weathered slings.  Climb is similar to Melanoma Shuffle only on thinner holds.  Crux is between bolts 2 and 3.

To the left of Murphy Newton Conspiracy a little ways. Climb an obvious right-slanting corner/slab with a clean/thin crack, to rust-colored  Metolius hangers visible from below.   The neopolitan colored slab below anchors was also TR'd at mid 5.10.

Climb over chest high bulge then pull left over roof.  The climbing gets crimpy for next three bolts, followed by a harder slab move but then eases off up to the anchor.

FA had one less bolt which lead to a cheese grating "sky dive" by one of the FAs.

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about twenty feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof, and ten feet right of Learning Curve.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, follow a dirty seam and smear up the light colored rock. Then follow a direct line up to the anchors on the red rock when the crack ends. Rappel with either two ropes or one 70m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

I like silly puns. This is perhaps the best of the slab routes established here by Mike Baker and his friends, (if only because of the name).This is the rightmost of the face routes, on this nice slab. They get harder as you move left to right, as the slab curves into a steeper configuration further right. The rock is better as the angle steepens up too, so this climb is mostly on great varnished Wingate, rather than the pale gritty fleshy stuff the easier routes waddle up.The pitch starts with thin moves to climb straight up to the first bolt. Or sidle across from the left to avoid this bit.The climbing is superb, linking crispy edges, on beautiful rippled stone, with a variety of mantels and high steps. The moves at the third (?) bolt are not easy. You smear right and clamber up onto a (not very) rounded protuberance. If you are real confident on thin smeary face, you'll have no trouble, but more slab-challenged folks (like myself) will struggle to get established on the lump, from where the next bolt becomes clippable. Above this a ridiculously tenuous smear move on perfect black Wingate, luckily with a bolt in front of your face. There is an odd finger/toe-pocket hereabouts. Not very natural-looking, in just the right place to step up into. Maybe this was going to be a bolt-hole. It's not entirely necessary. Grunt right here to a big foot-ledge. Relax. Step left and up onto more sandy ripply territory and much more generic climbing, with ever bigger scallops. Forge upwards to the anchors.

Immediately right of Love Hurts is a nice bolted slab.  The best of the lines in this area.

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall.  It starts about twenty-five feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up.  Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8).  From the ledge, follow the right most of three lines that go to the anchors in the center of the face.  One tough move around the 3rd fixed piece, and the rest is about 5.7.  Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 70m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes