A great start on good holds, as the arete starts to reduce, the slopier the moves. The top looks doable but haven't seen or heard about anyone ever doing this.

Arrowhead

Beep Beep Sheep

Mists of Mordor

Staff

Trash Crack

Frictionite

Starting with a low pinch (not quite a sit start). Up left to a side pull. Then right to a slopy jug. Then swing left to the outside, and make a little dyno for the top, sharp, cut crack.

Follow 9 bolts to chains. Keep an eye out for the local resident bighorn sheep herd members that frequent the highway, and hope the vehicles slow down and avoid them!

Climb a slab past three bolts to a "loose" lip (just be a little careful and you'll be fine). Turn the lip, and go straight up the face past two more bolts.

Eds.

This is a combination of two descriptions.  The second one is deleted to reduce redundancy in the database.

There is a "half" of a crack between

Mists of Mordor

and The Practice Wall.  Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)

This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor.  I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.

Per

Tymothe Meskel

: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.

That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.

Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.

PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?

I bolted and climbed this route at about an easy 5.9 or so, then there was a big loose block just before the second bolt, so I removed it for safety sake and then realized that it made the climb a lot harder. I haven't been able to figure it out yet, maybe someone with some good slab technique can.

The bottom to the first bolt is kind of loose, but once again I have never pulled down anything [unexpectedly]. This isn't worth driving up for in and of itself, but if you're in the area give it a shot.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)