Mixed. Mostly bolts with 2 gear placements in largish cracks. This is a well bolted, very fun line. The grade from the guidebook seems about right.

Elf's Cap

Gullet

Cleft Palace

The Patriot

Climb the face just right of Gullet, ending at a lower anchor. Clip two bolts on the low-angle part then head to your right. Bolts follow a jagged arete then up to slab.

From DB's 2016 guide: "Start in the back of the alcove and move right, finishing with a short crack. Chain anchor."

My climbing partner and I clipped four bolts going up to the back of the alcove then could find no more going off to climber's right. I think here it must be all gear to the top following a good-looking large hand crack, though we didn't get to do that since we didn't bring gear.

From DB's 2016 guide: "Start in the back of the alcove with the wooden bench and move left and up to chains. Bolted on lead." Clip your first two bolts (one on very low-angle, the other another 10 feet up) then start looking left. Do not clip the next two bolts higher up the alcove -- these seem to go nowhere at all! 7 or 8 more bolts along some nice classic Castle granite up to some solid 5.9 slab.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Three Spires