Dolofright: a two pitch face climb up the blunt arete along the right side of Dolomite Spire as seen from the road.

Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between

Lighthouse Tower

and

Dolomite Spire

(see approach directions for Dolomite).

P1

:  Hard right off the deck.  Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete.  If you found these moves difficult, get ready.  Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to a good stance immediately below the crux: a really awesome (but reach-dependent?) sequence using two side pulls and (seemingly) no feet.  Clip a fourth bolt, perform a difficult mantle, and then run it out a ways along the arete on scary gear (two yellow Aliens in a flaring slot) and scary holds to more bolts and a great belay ledge.  Many sections of 5.11 on this pitch.

P2

:  Climb up off the belay over ledgey terrain and dicey holds 25' to a bolt.  Repeat this for 3 more bolts (hardest/scariest move comes about ten feet above the fourth bolt) to an anchor on the summit.  Mostly 5.10-.  Descent:  From a second anchor on the far side of the tower you can get down in one clean rap with double 60m ropes and 10' of downclimbing.  You can also stop at the high notch between Dolomite and Big Bend Butte if your ropes are shorter.

Dolofright is an incredible route, especially when you consider that Tom Gilje bolted this thing on lead, but Fred Knapp must have been on Crack when he said that it was the best Wingate face climbing he'd ever done.  There are many great, difficult sequences, but they are constantly interrupted by terrifying sections of climbing on flexing holds.  Falls are not necessarily clean on this climb, and I felt that both pitches are deserving of an R rating.  That said, the position (especially on the lower crux pitch) is awesome and the summit is great, but this is definately a route for true desert rats.

Dolofright

Campground Route

Kor Route

Decent route that adds two pitches to the Kor Route. I recall some pretty thin nailing and hand crack climbing.

This is a good 4-pitch route which offers a typical desert clean aid climbing experience. Be prepared to be out of your aiders.

Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)

Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse right past a bolt to a right facing corner and follow this another 10 feet to the belay. (C2)

Pitch 3) Continue up the right facing, right leaning dihedral via fixed pins, high steps and tri-cams. Climb around the corner to a bolt ladder which leads to a solid anchor above a loose ledge. (C1+)

Pitch 4) Traverse right on a good ledge past a fixed pin to the corner of Dolomite Spire facing Big Bend Butte. Climb up past a bolt and mantle onto a small ledge right on the corner of the tower. (very airy)  Continue via aid and free moves past a loose block to the summit. (rock shoes helpful) (5.8, C2)

Descent:Two double rope rappels. Rappel to the notch between Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire, then to the ground on east side of tower. (away from road)

Description

Protection

Routes in Dolomite Spire