Climb a ramp to a right-leaning crack with a left-facing dihedral above. See topo. There is a top-rope route on the west side called "Palm Reader" that one can climb from the base of the rappel.

Scott Baxter Spire

North Siamese Twin: Nacho Route

North Siamese Twin: North Face

South Siamese Twin: South Twin Route

Spinner Spire

Tarantula Spire

 This route shares a start, then continues left at the end of the first pitch.

 This route shares a start, then continues left at the end of the first pitch. The second pitch continues to a right-facing dihedral, followed by a spicy slab to the summit.

Climb the north face past some bolts and gear.

Choss! This route gets one star because the summit is amazing.  Small, perfectly flat and sporting amazing views.  This spire was originally attempted in 2004 by Jake Dayley and Chris Tatum and later that year with Dustin Wildermuth.  These attempts failed due to poor rock, spinning bolts and vaginal sand.

 Locate the South facing crack system and climb up ever steepening terrain.  After the 4th bolt the route veers right into worsening choss. Tiptoe past a mudball and into the relative security of a squeeze chimney.  Continue up the squeeze with ease to the crux OW roof/mantle. Cruise to the excellent summit. Terrible rock but good pro or bolts when you need them.  

 Rap: 70' down the North side to the notch.

 Rack: Doubles to #3.  Singles - #4, #5.  An assortment of draws/slings. One 60m rope. Helmet!

Pitch1: Climb the southwest face past two bolts to the prominent "fangs". Traverse right below the limestone band to gain the ledge. Continue up a right-facing dihedral to a ledge. Pitch2: Continue up a face past four more bolts and some smaller gear to the summit.

The Land of Spires is a collection of aesthetic towers poised on the ridge lining the eastern edge of the mouth of Long Canyon. First explored by John Burcham, these obscure summits don't see much traffic. Expect solitude.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Land of Spires