This route is rated 5.7R and is not for the meek. Start at the lower far left side of mammoth rock and follow the arete (5.5). Sling small tree on the way up (last pro for 30 feet) and head right toward crack. Place cam (.5"-.6") and move up to next and last bolt. Head toward chimney and belay in cave. Start up chimney which takes gear well for the first half. The second half can be marginally protected with 6" to 8" pro. Sling tree for anchor at top.

Peregrine/Raptors nest

Directisima

Boromir

Bridge of Sighs

Proboscis

NOTE this is a second pitch option only, does not start at ground.

A 7-bolt more direct 2nd pitch option to bridge of sighs that goes left after the first three bolts of same climb. This is much higher quality than original second pitch of BoS.

"Boromir" is 30' right of "Bridge of Sighs" and ascends a steep face with a thin diagonal crack. Technical face climbing with three cruxes, characterized by thin, precise foot-work yet also by dynamic, technical movement in spots.

Bridge of Sighs to the top of Mammoth rock.

There are two starts to this climb. The left start  (Africanized 5.11b) climbs an overhung traverse out of the cave with a thrilling run out to join the bolted line.

The right start is easier and gives an over all grade 5.10c Expect some moderate run outs and hollow, fragile rock throughout.

Could be done in one 60 meters pitch.

Or you can break it in two 27 meters pitches by using bolted anchors station in the cave.

Bolts and chains are camouflaged.

Run out portion on second pitch is on SUPER easy 5.6. All the 5.10 moves are well-protected. On top of second pitch belay from the hole and walk off to descend.

Bolted route right from Peregrine.

Two bolt-protected slightly run out pitches in a great setting with fragile holds. Bolts locations make for some difficult and spicy clips. Belay on the top (of second pitch) from a big hole and walk off on descend.

First pitch:

Move to the left from second bolt is super cool- a lot of air under and great holds.

60 meters rope is enough for top-roping the first (most fun) pitch.

Could be done in one 58-meters pitch with 12+ quick-draws.

Second pitch:

Rock is fragile. The move after first bolt was the hardest for me. After that it goes way easier. At some point route goes way left from the bolt - put your longest sling to reduce rope drag or back clean it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mammoth Rock