This is a stout slightly overhanging route. Follow the left bolt line, and head straight up to the anchors. It would be possible to hike up and around the back side of the crag to the top to setup a toprope.

I am not sure if 5.11a is the actual rating, because I only stumbled upon it. If someone knows this route or has a guidebook with it, please update the info. I am posting because this area is not yet listed on Mt Project but should be.

Unknown Sport 1

Unknown Sport 2

Unknown Toprope

Unknown Trad

Either lead the trad line up to the anchors or hike around the back side of the crag to setup the toprope. This is a nice, easily line with lots of great feet and hands.

The start is the crux of the whole route depending on how you approach it. It looks like you could make this a 5.11 by staying directly under the bolts and pulling some hard pinches, a small pocket, and laybacks. We went left starting more on the left bolted route but clipping this route.

The crux is getting over the lip from the 2nd bolt to the third. Just above the 2nd bolt are a few crimpy, slightly sloper holds, but it still positive enough to move on. Start in a huge pocket to the left of the 2nd bolt, lean out far to the right (this might be harder for shorter reaches), and lean into a small ledge above the 2nd bolt. Cross over to another good ledge, and adjust your feet to then pop up and over the ledge to a huge chunk of rock.

Once up and above the 2nd bolt, stay right for a rather easy climb or stay more out on the arete for a more challenging climb.

Follow the clear, right-angling crack on the left face to the top. There are 2 fixed anchors at the top. Make sure to pay attention when reaching the bush growing out of the rock. It is easy to veer left up another crack and get off route to the anchors. This has great hands and feet the whole way with lots of protection.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unknown Crag