Common Deer ascends a short, bulging face via fluid moves on slopers. The problem climbs near some bad rock, but with the exception of the gaston before the lip, the holds are remarkably solid.

Sit start with hands matched on the shelf. From there, make a big move up to a sloping rail, work the feet over to the left, cross over with a right hand to a sloper on the rail (crux), then bump the right up to a gaston, get a foot on the start hold, position the hands, and hit the lip, and top it out.

There is an alternate compression method that utilizes the undercling/sidepull while slapping up the sloping rail, but I wasn't able to spend time on the method because of a bad wrist. Nonetheless, the moves felt comparable in difficulty to the previously mentioned beta.

The final gaston before the lip is hollow, but it will hold if handled statically.

Common Deer

Cheat Grass Pie

Lawyers, Guns, & Money

Sponge Worthy

Holdin' on to My Chicken

Strung Out On Nature

Cheat Grass Pie starts out with some fun compression climbing and finishes up a technical slab.

Sit start with a left hand crimp and a right hand sloper.  From there, bump the right up to the sloper on the arete (crux), then bump the left hand up to a sidepull, slap the right again to the next sloper with a thumb-catch, stack a left hand above the right on the crimp, paste a high right heel, and crank up to the small crimp and features which access the jug and topout.

Sit start with hands matched in a hueco and feet to your right.  Move up the slight overhang to a set of crimps, set your feet, and hit the lip.  Another option skips the big throw to the lip by climbing up past the crimps through a tough sloper to gain the lip.  Either way you choose, top it out using the good cracks located atop the boulder.

Sit start by the pinyon pine tree with a big right hand sidepull.  Move up the overhang through a pair of good left hand shelves, bump the right hand up to a sidepull or edge, stick the lip, rock onto the slab.

This problem starts on the same hold as

Lawyers, Guns, and Money

but heads left instead.

Start with cross hands and make a big move to the three finger slot. Use either the 1 1/2-2 finger pocket or the crimp (which is further away) with the right hand and move to the big holds.

Top out on slopers until to come over the ledge.

Sit start with a left hand edge a right hand gaston. From there, stick a big move to the crater with the right hand, bump the left hand up to the great sidepull, then match at the crater, and finish up and right right of the small trees atop the boulder (same finish as

Holdin' on to My Chicken

).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Essential Boulder