Pitch 1: 11+    The route starts on the downhill side of the formation immediately left of the start to Ace in the Hole. Head up passing 6 bolts or so and a few gear placements. Bring a set of stoppers, a blue alien, and a .75 camalot. You can do this without the gear, but it is a little spicy. 

  Pitch 2: 12+   Clip the first bolt and yard up to clip the second before you start to keep you off the ledge if you fall...the moves at the start are hard. Climb the arete/face to the left of ace in the hole. Essentially three boulder problem separated by good rests. 8 bolts on this pitch no gear necessary.

 The route is atypical for rushmore, not too much crystal pinching...lots of patina edges and slopers. Great rock, position, and movement=Good times....Go climb this thing, it's fun.

The Gambler

Royal Flush

Start immediately right of the huge chockstone, following the left line of bolts to 1 or 2 gear placements up to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Belay or continue to the top being mindful of rope drag. The next section is fun face climbing up the dihedral and crystalline crack to the top of a pillar with a bolted anchor way off right. Don't belay here, instead go straight up and yard over the roof to the summit and final anchor.  

  Two options to descend. Rap all the way back to the anchor for the potential first pitch, but be sure to keep the rope out of the roof crack OR make 3 raps straight down The Gambler.  

  The bolts on the first section (or pitch) might be a new advent. Perhaps to avoid the federal closure area...or maybe the chockstone crack itself? Regardless, it's a great route with fun climbing all the way.

Spire on the northeast end of Emancipation. Holds routes such as: Royal Flush, Gambler, Ace In the Hole.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Five Card Draw