From the anchors of Castles Made of Sand, move right and follow the bolt line straight up the long slab to a final headwall with a stout move.  An excellent link up is to climb Crimson Arete (5.10a) and pull over the lip to the stance above the anchors then continue up to Castles Made of Sand anchors clipping a bolt along the way.  It's possible to link Crimson Arete and 10b or Not 10b into a single long pitch.

10b or Not 10b

Crimson Arete

Hospitaliano

Down and Out

Sudan

Moral Kiosk

Smiley Face

Deadwood

It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City

Castles Made of Sand

Slow Children Playing

A short, enjoyable route with great arete moves and one hard move about 2/3rds up.  May be harder,(10b?) for shorter climbers.  This route faces SE and gets late afternoon shade.

This is a fun route that begins with the first pitch of Smiley Face, then traverses right on a easy 5.7ish terrain.  The third and money pitch goes up a bolted slab before getting into a dihedral/roof formation.

Rap the route Smiley Face as the final pitch is a rope stretcher and even an 80m won't get you back to the second pitch anchors.

This is the visor roof crack that sticks out on the East face of Castle Rock.  It is easiest to approach via the walk off above the Crack House.  Be careful if you choose to scramble to the belay just below the roof as the rock is still lichen covered.

Climb into the back of the roof then come out, I used a jug around the final lip and heel hook.  This has a 5.11 rating, but it is more similar to a roped up boulder problem.

Start on a steep ramp that leads into a stem / chimney. Some weird moves eventually puts you on the face where you finish out the climb moving up through jugs.

Step up off the low angle white slab and climb through steeper rock to gain lower angle face above.

A cam or three will protect the climbing to the first lead bolt.

"It's so much more attractive inside the moral kiosk"

This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully.  Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof.  Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor.  Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor.  Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot.  Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.

This somewhat uninspiring looking line has continuously challenging and interesting moves. The crux for most people is likely to be the final bulge move before the anchors.  A small roof/bulge move 1/3rd up may be the crux for others.  The rock is a little gritty at the start of the route but is good the rest of the way.  Deadwood had a large variety of fun moves.  The climbing reminds me somewhat of some of the routes at Lover's Leap (CA).

Route starts out on a prominent layback edge. Thin moves above the third bolt, then super thin moves above the fourth at a thin horizontal to easier climbing above.

Brian (below) said he thinks it was put up by Chris Harmston?

This route is just left of Crimson Arete and at it's crux, it's easier to cheat over to holds on Crimson Arete and then veer back.  The intended crux is on sharp crimps making long reaches.  Some fun moves on the rest of the route.

Start at the left side of the white base slab.

Traverse up and left to a steep bit.  A long sling or two down low will help immensely with rope drag up higher.

At the crest of the steepness to the transition to slab, there's a shark tooth shaped horn that would take a sling for pro.

Continue up the slab.

Some cams optional.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Castle Rock - East Face