Delicate slab climbing on small but positive holds gets you to a point below the big hole.   Decide which hand to go for it and go for it.

With the hold reached you can decide to push on direct at a scary V1, or move right into the corner, for a more amenable finish.

The Hole

Pig Snout Right

Pig Snout Direct

Deadman's Corner

Center Face

Problem O

Drug Ascent

This is the climb up the middle wall avoiding the cracks on either side. It's an "Unnamed V2" in the book, but really the first 15 ft climb more like V4 (and it looks even harder!) Not sure if something broke?

Most people will need to start with a bit of a hop to get off the ground. Grab a weird sloping blob, and then the really good pocket just above that. Stand up high using a tiny crimp or some other desperate features on the left side of the golden patina. Then grab a good undercling and hang on. Much easier climbing on solid holds leads the rest of the way up the tall vertical face.

It's kinda hard to grade the upper section. I don't think any moves are harder than maybe 5.8, but it has the potential to get pumpy if you spend too long feeling around for the good pockets. If you have any doubt, try it on a rope first. I rapped in to preview and put some chalk on the good holds before bouldering it.

Climb the same starting moves as "Pig Snout Direct", then move a couple feet right at the snout. Though the crux is in the first 12 feet, it stays steep and exciting (5.8) to the top!

This boulder problem climbs the round feature (pig snout) just right of the "Drug Ascent" problem. The crux is the first 12 feet. After that, it is still pretty steep and about 5.8.

The route climbs the obvious corner on the right side of the main tower. A thin finger crack up a steep corner eases off in difficulty after 20' or so.

Since it is a crack and climbs like one, I let it keep the 10c rating, but for the boulderers out there it goes at V1.

A nice introduction to bouldering at Deadman.

Start on the leftside of the arete, and climb up leftwards onto the face, where a long reach gets you a bomber hold and the top.

Looking at the "pig snout" directly in front of you on center block, it's the crack that starts looker's left. Up the crack to the featured and angled top until you get on top of the highball. Fun crack, fun features up top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Center Block