Big and burly is the name of the game.  This route is 2 to the right of Perfect Crimb, and starts up the face to the big notch in the lower roof.  It's pretty sandy on the first face so be careful climbing to the first bolt.  From there, catch a little rest under the roof before setting out for the sprint to the anchors.  Pull the roof and then move left around that hanging flake and onto the next face.  I've heard you can knee bar somewhere up there but I never tried.  Pull the next roof and finish on good but pumpy jugs and edges.  Then attempt the real crux of the climb, retrieving your notched biners, because you are too cheap to buy notchless ones. 

RCM&W #86, p. 131

Fallout, aka Perfect Sex

Crank-n-Go-Go

Advanced Birding

Demystification

Vice Squad

Hateful Pleasures

Don't Mean Nothin'

Pulldown Menu

Technical Difficulties

Gear Fear

The Perfect Crimb

One Hand Jam

Lacuna

This one move wonder starts right next to "Perfect Crimb" with chill 5.10 climbing to the roof. Then you get to choose your pocket to crank around the roof to a sweet edge which brings you into the crux of stabbing a gaston, highstepping, and then just pulling down. Very fun route with one bouldery section, and not as sandy as "Perfect Sex", or "Advanced Birding".

This route follows a basically strait path up the line of bolts.   

 RCM&W #90, p.134.

Advanced Birding is a nice climb past 2 small roofs that is three climbs right of Perfect Crimb. It is a load of fun and on the easy side for the 'book grade' (12b) so lots of people use as it as their attempt at onsighting or flashing a 12. Ignoring the grade issue for a second, it is still a 4 star climb, up an easy face to crimps above the first roof, and then a big move to a hueco below the next roof, then a couple power pulls and you're through.

Best slab to be found at Red Wing. Super good rock quality with awesome balancy moves. Crux is right in the middle, followed by crimpers and pockets leading to the anchors.

Follow three bolts on somewhat sandy/dirty climbing to the base of a dihedral crack to the right of the roof.  Place nuts in the crack and cruise to the two bolt anchor.  Be sure to bring gear as you are looking at a ground fall from the top if you don't place any.  The upper crack takes good gear and goes at about 5.7.  The bottom face climbing is forgetable but the crack is a lot of fun.   

 RCM&W #88, p. 131.

Thin crack in the middle of a dark face located to the left and around the arete from Perfect Crimb. Harder than it looks. Sustained 5.10 climbing with pumpy and difficult gear placements on insecure footholds. Respectable climb.  

  I know of at least one long fall on this route where all pieces except one ripped and the leader ended a foot above the ground. Small gear is rarely bomber at Red Wing so zip it up to limit chances of decking.

Climb up to a small ledge and clip the first bolt.  Continue up the dihedral, steming your way to the top on somewhat polished foot holds.  A fairly sustained climb, one of the better 5.9s on the bluff.   

 RCM&W #84, p.131

Bolted line to the left of the Perfect Crimb area.  Mediocre route but an okay warmup or a good first lead.  Starts on a hill and is awkward to belay for.  Not very memorable, but hey, not every route can be 4 stars, then they would all be average! 

RCM&W # 80, p. 131

A nice little route with an incredibly unfortunate belay. My girlfriend still scowls at me when she's reminded of my three tries on this route, and how she endured a crumbling hell belay for all three of them.  Hard eleven climbing becomes 10/11 climbing for twenty or thirty feet, and then a great rest high on the wall.    From there, you shake, and look, shake and look. Unless a bunch of chalk gets sprayed on it, you won't be able to see how to finish the route, so just go up and throw yourself at it. The crux move is a long, low percentage throw to a nice, flat jug. The hardest part is how far away that big hold is. On-sight attempts are great fun on this thing.  If you miss the crux throw, you can downclimb to the rest, and try to think of what to do.  Shocking that the rock is good the whole way, when many of these rarely climbed twelves at Red Wing usually, and inexplicably, continue past the good rock and into the bad.     Would benefit from a carefully built trail to the base, and either a small platform dugout, or a belay bolt at the bottom.   

This area stands alone about halfway in between the "Anadonia area" and "New Vice area."  Although many of the climbs have sandy starts, this is some of the most unique climbing at the bluff.  The center of the wall contains two large roofs that offer fun, steep routes.  Although most of the climbing starts at 5.11 and goes up from there, this area does contain a couple of classic moderates.  A great place to be if you get rained on in the middle of your day.

Description

Protection

Routes in Perfect Crimb Area