Don't miss this classic! Sustained and crimpy climbing for the first 5 bolts (but with great clipping holds), then a two bolt technical crux. The rest of the climbing is a techy slab heading up and right, then finishing on the Overhangus chains.

Opiate for the People

Red Hair

It's like That

Russian Arête

Bitten

Bachelor'sWeek

Left Bleeding

Overhangus Interruptus

Crawford's Route

21 Run

Belly Rubber

Spineless

Marty's Right

Inferiority Complex

Evil-Ass Traverse

Under the Influence

The Roach

Mental Warfare

Dump Truck

Progressive Discipline

Rectus Traverse

Naked Man

Quiver

Being Inferior

A steep lower half feeds into a technical open book dihedral which overs a few timely rests after the steep lower half. Save some for clipping the anchors, with some creative footwork clipping the anchors can be pretty easy.

Said to be a very good route. Starts on Bitten, then at 1/3 height stay right of the arete.

You will find Bitten in the blocky corner where the steep pillar joins the rest of Main Wall. (3rd bolt line from the right). Start up the ugly corner of chossy looking blocks. The first half of the climb is 5.11 and below- gymnastic and fun!. After a no-hands rest, the business begins. Steep 5.12 climbing is capped by a steeper roof and a hard boulder problem. The last clip at the roof is desperate, most choose to skip it. This is a Deep Creek classic!

May be a little hard for the grade. The Roach makes a better warm-up for most people.

A stout boulderly lower portion leads to a short juggy section prior to a delicate slab.  Finishes on lower angle terrain near a seam underneath the (15)Russian Arete

This one is atypical for Deep Creek. There is a crux at the 3rd clip, and some tricky moves interspersed with great rests. The angle eases off at the 4th bolt, but the climbing stays interesting to the chains.

A boulder problem off the ground and a high first bolt. Then easy climbing (and rests) for 15 ft.  Is followed by progressively harder climbing until about the 8th bolt, where holds get larger and more positive.  The route finishes pulling over a small roof.

A brilliant, steep endurance climb with a no-hands rest at the midway point. Scramble up the blocky corner to the high first bolt.  Now you'll make fun, gymnastic moves to jugs, then one V3 move before the rest. Milk that rest, then make a 5.11 traverse around the corner and bear down for 3 bolts of steep 5.12 climbing. After the crux, the holds get much better, but the roof gets steeper. The chains are just over the lip of the roof.

Shares the first 4 bolts of Being Inferior then splits right for 4 bolts. Rejoins 'Being' at the top. It's a bit more sustained than Being, with a cruxy section right after the split.

From Bachelor's Week to the corner below Russian Arête and back again. Pretty fun to work on. Much of it is do-able in sections by mere mortals and you can go till pumped, then drop to a soft, sandy landing.

Under the Influence is squeezed in between Dump Truck and Red Hair. It's not one of the easier 12a's at the Creek, but it deserves more traffic than it gets.

Start on the flake and follow it up until you reach the crux (4th bolt) then traverse right to the rail and continue upwards.

The Roach is many of climbers first 5.11, and serves as the cliffs warm up. There's a two bolt extension after the anchors that goes at 11b.

Making it through the hard and extremely thin sequence down low is rewarded with a juggy horizontal ledge, milk this slight rest as you battle the pump factor to the anchor.

Looks hard- I'll try to add a description later. I believe this has only seen a couple sends.

Pumpy endurance boulder traverse of the whole wall. Ends below the bitten, and can be climbed left-to-right or right-to-left

This brilliant route begins with a steep polished section followed by a nice rest before moving slightly left into a "c" shaped shallow corner system.  Difficult slopers and small crimps lead to a tricky to clip 5th bolt.  Working out the sequence through here is key to the send.  Pull through a small and juggy bulge continuing on jugs to a nice rest (routes original finish).  Now move right onto some nice face climbing finishing by pulling over a small roof.

*Note:  Naked Man was Deep Creek's 1st route*

A long route with blocky edges and steep pockets. This is an area classic!

First bolt is kind of high, but there is a very positive clipping hold right next to the first clip.  Throw down on a bouldery start to a good jug after the 3rd bolt. Then an endurance section to a great rest on a big flake at the 7 th bolt. The route splits left above, and you've got a short crux before 3 or 4 bolts of 5.10 climbing to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Main Wall