Psycho Man is the wide crack in the left facing Dihedral capped by the giant roof. Visible from the trail 2.75 miles in.

Psycho Man

Junky

Evil Women

War Pigs

Crazy Train

Believer

Selling my soul

Snow Blind

Little Dolls

Cabeza del Murcielago

Suicide Solution

Flying High Again

Mr. Crowley

I Don't Know

Into the Void

No More Tears

N.I.B.

Hand of Doom

Sweet Leaf

Dirty Women

Children of the Grave

Wicked World

Miracle Man

Miracle Man is a second Pitch var. of Psycho Man.   After the crux on the first P, move left and up to a belay station. or After climbing Psycho, rap down to the Miracle Man anchors.   Climbs the weakness up the face left of the wide crack.

This route is in your face from the start.

Jugs past 2 bolts, then climb crack up left side, pull on to arete with flakes jetting straight out, up to chains.

This right heads out right of the cave, avoid the loose rock, then up thin seams.

1st P is short and easy and can be avoided.   2nd P is good, it has one bolt at the start. Belay from tree.

This a really sweet crack, if only it were longer. Tip lower down and jump right on Junky.

It is mostly 5.8. There are 2 ways to finish; climb past 2 bolts then traverse left to chains, or better yet climb left and up steep face with seams on small pro to chains.

Awesome stemming, palming and intricate face climbing on bullet-hard water-polished gneiss. Stem up the improbable box formed by rounded fins to a stance below the large, overhanging feature. Is that an enormous jug on top, or did Ozzy leave leftovers for you to grapple with? Figure it out and you’ll be rewarded, but don’t gloat for too long...Move left before the pump sets in and surf beta-heavy moves on impeccable stone to a second stem box. Tiptoe your way up this feature to an overhanging jug haul and the Miracle Man cold-shuts.

This is a variation of I Don't Know.   It goes right and up to chains.   It has 2 bolts. 

  If you belay from the ground; Watch your ends!

The route is just so short that a ground fall is possible between the first two pieces, but the crux last move is protected. 

Mc Croweley is the second route climbed, and the must do route at the OCB.    The first P is short and can be avoided but is worth doing. Both pitches were put up on lead in 1998. The second pitch is the money; a 90' stem box with a finger seam.

Starts on the ledge. forks left half way up.   Belay on top. Do not lower. Step right to rap from N.I.B.   This is the 3rd route established here. 98

Into the Void is a second pitch var to Psycho Man. It climbs an awesome and intimidating flake out rt, 1/3rd of the way up the 2nd pitch.

The crux is getting established in the wide crack.

This one also starts from the ledge, you can belay from the ground. North facing. Stays in the shade. 

  Nice edge climbing to Shuts. 75' rappel to ground.

The first pitch is about 5.6R and does not offer much climbing. It can be avoided by walking around and up to the ledge. Getting and moving past the first piece is the crux of the second pitch.

Right most weakness on upper north facing formation.

wide crack with huge hollow flakes, use bolt up high.

This is the last route on the right side of the main wall, it is the shortest route and it has no anchor unless you walk back a ways, instead down lead it or boulder it.

The first P is the hard one. P 2 is mostly .9 with a move of .10

Backcountry Desert Trad climbing. 

  am shade

Description

Protection

Routes in OCB