Start on Heroin (12d) and continue past the anchors to the Relapse anchors.

Scared Straight

Small Dose

Relapse

Heroin

Under the Sweltering Sky

Needle Me

Forever Man

Overhanging muscle climbing up the furthest left route in the cave.

This route starts on Forever Man. Near the 4th bolt you will clip on the other side of the cave and continue on that bolt line (Needle Me). 

 Straight forward till you have to cross over. Then it's a boulder sequence till the chains. Some seems to stay in the crack before the chains but there is also a way to move right of the crack. 

Go up through the corners, over a roof and toward the chains to the right.

Overhanging climbing through flakes and pockets.

Forever Man is the longest line in the Sun Cave and is very, very steep.  I can't remember doing a route that consistently climbs at a 45 degree angle for so long.  The quality of the climbing is somewhat lacking: some choss, a cave, fairly boring movement, but it is quite the so-pump-journ in topsy-turvy world. 

  Begin on the left side of a prow feature at the entrance of the cave, clipping the first bolt from some cheater blocks and then pulling up onto the arete and climbing along the entrance to the cave.   Some good rests high on the route precede the most difficult sections, including a desperate move to the anchor clipping jug (made easier by a stem to the adjacent wall).  Nothing checks in at 5.12, but 16 clips of muscle make it feel hard.  A 60m (probably even a 50m) cord will get you to the ground safely.

This cave sits on the north side of the river and is very obvious from the road/parking as a long, left leaning slash in the wall.  The cave houses several routes, and offers warmer temps than the shady side of the VRG (in fact, even though the climbing in the cave never sees the sun, the cave tends to trap warm air which can make for steamy conditions).  The rock is far lower quality than the more popular walls at the VRG, but at least the routes are steep.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sun Cave