Begin from a sit start using good holds in the seam down low. After a move or two, a long move to an invisible-from-below LH layaway crimp is necessary. Another long move to the slopey shelf short of the top and all that is left is some nifty footwork and balance to topout.

Originally done from a stand-start, a sit-start was added shortly thereafter.

Gateway Face

Gateway

The Horn Arete

Downtrail Face

Gateway Arete

Black Tornado

Begin from a low start matched on the complex of holds under the bulge. Get the lip and some large but wrong-way facing features higher up and pull the bulge up onto the slab. Lots of tension and gravity threatens throughout. This is a challenging independent line, but the fun part is over quick before a somewhat chossy lichen-infested slab.

Begin from a sit start at the bottom of a right-facing and vertically-arching rail. Battle to get your feet underneath you at the start, then layback the slopey rail as you head upward. Veer a tad left at the apex of the slopey rail and keep it together for the mantel topout.

This is an obvious and independent line that is pretty damn good.

Begin from a sit start using crimps on top of the lowest shield of rock. Start by smacking a LH sloper, then trend up and right across poor crimps and make a big move to a corner jug just shy of the top and pull over. This is an obvious, independent and fun core-tension problem with poor feet until you've snagged the high jug. Note that in hot or humid conditions, it will feel harder as the start is fairly polished and lacks some of the friction found on most Evans problems. Sequential, fun and proof-positive that a problem does not have to be steep to be worthy of 4 stars.

Although I do not have FA info for this line, one of the Ohio crew are the likely first ascentionist.

Begin from a sit start matched on the lowest hold under the little roof at the bottom of the arete, make a powerful move or two, then get your feet established and enjoy the easier airy terrain above. This is an obvious and independent line that is a good warmup and V0 from a stand start.

Although I do not have FA info for this line, one of the Ohio crew are the likely first ascentionist.

Begin from a stand start and reach high above your head for a seam you can obviously match in just left of the black lichen. Pull on, maybe bump your RH slightly right, then violently throw 5 feet up and right to the top of the "black tornado" streak of lichen.

A borderline-impossible-looking sit start on a jug below is obvious, but intermediates and feet to bridge the gap are sparse ... to put it mildly.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gateway Boulder