This goes up the blunt arete, right of "Chop Your Dome Off!" and joins that route in the crack up higher.

I top roped this first pitch in 1990 and thought it was worthy of bolts, but never went back.

3 bolts have been added since.

A second pitch starts in a hand crack then climbs 5.9 face past 3 bolts.

Drive-by

California Love

Psycho Path

2 of America's Most Wanted

Path of Light

Batso's Blitzo

Chop Your Dome Off!

Thug Lite

Thug Life

The Chronic

This route is down on the far right side of Gangsta Wall, near the corner where it turns to Hit and Run Area.

It starts in a 5.8 crack in a corner, now known as "2 of America's Most Wanted". It moves out right at a horizontal, to a thin crack. Follow this and move up to a small ledge to belay.

I placed two 1/4" bolts for a belay/rappel anchor.

I used a lost arrow to protect the crack.

Almost a full rope length of climbing, Clip bolts to a ledge/crack that turns into an easy roof.

This route climbs the obvious curving crack and black streak on the upper slab to the left of "Path of Light"

Climb the start of "Chop Your Dome Off!", but instead of moving right, continue straight up.

A slightly runout trad route that has effectively been replaced by newer bolted routes to either side of it.

Start in a thin seam that turns into a shallow crack with a bush. The start is the same for CA Love, but where CA Love moves left onto the bolted face, continue strait up. Eventually the crack ends and the route wanders up looking for places to put in small gear until you get to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. You can belay here, or continue up a right facing corner to the top. Essentially the same finish as The Chronic.

Stout for the grade compared to other routes on this wall.

This route goes up the corner/flake system just right of "Path of Light".

The crux is the start with balancey moves getting established in the main corner. I found these moves tricky for the grade. Then cruise up low angle terrain to a 5.6 layback. A two bolt anchor can be used to toprope the route, but tie your ends because a 60 m rope barely reaches. It is also possible to continue the pitch up easy 5th class terrain to the top of the formation which allows you to access the anchors of most of the other climbs on this wall. If you do go to the top, descend in two rappels using the rappel stations about 50 feet right of this route.

Climb a steep crack to a low angle slab with three bolts, to a shallow corner.

It can be done in one pitch, with a 60 m rope.

Rappel off.

Starting at the right side of the Gangsta Wall, climb featured face protected by nice 3/8" bolts. Continue up runout face (no bolts) or step right to climb and protect in the crack system, enjoy the Lover's Leap style "roof" moves. Finishes at the single bolt station atop the wall. Rappel with one 60m rope, there is a midway rappel station on the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gangsta Wall